Engine choices

[Rabbit16v@attbi.com (Rabbit16v)]

Nope!  Actually runs pretty hard on CIS alone (no fuel cut out!!!).  And, if
your so inclined, you can add a vacuum advance disty and not even install a
knock system!  Just use premium and advance to the utmost point of no knock!
Since the ignition system isn't run by a computer (the knock box) then your
timing is only regulated by you and a diaphragm!!  I did a 2.0L 16v swap on
a friends Caddy with CIS and added the knock sensor and Weber big bore
throttle body.  If you were'nt careful you could hit 7000k plus in the blink
of an eye!!  But hey, I'm not suppose to tell ALL my secrets!!

Dave


>
> PSST... 16v = cis-e, 8v = cis... if you slap a 16v in an 8v car you need
to chnage the cis to cise system....that is a pita. And a lot more than just
slapping a knock box in.
>
> ATS - Patrick Bureau
> 1985 8v Euro GTX 3A/JH Project
> 1985 8v Euro GT Project (Daily Drive)
> http://www.longcoeur.com/scirocco/
> http://www.texassciroccoteam.org/
>
>
> --- "Rabbit16v" <Rabbit16v@attbi.com> wrote:
> >> See previous email about going with the JH 1.8 8v - I'm telling you -
> >it'll
> >> the be "cheapest" route...
> >
> >Cheapest route, maybe, but best, I beg to differ.  I know, I like 16v
motors
> >but if you look at the hp gain for the stock versions (90hp compared to
> >123hp) then you will see that it is about a 35% increase in hp over the
90hp
> >motor.  That is more that 1/3rd the power for what, wiring in a knock
sensor
> >system?  That's the toughest part about the 16v into an 8v car unless you
> >swap the entire FI system.  HTH!
> >
> >Dave
> >
> >
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