[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
Rod Bolts...to replace or not to replace....that is the question...
This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C2A4EB.626BD8A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Jesse,
I have a press so I don't know any short cuts. They are not all that =
tight in there and maybe a drill press would do it or a vise. I'd =
certainly give that a try. I don't know why, just a feeling on my part =
actually, but I would not drive them with a hammer.
BTW there are presses available at most "hands on" repair shops and =
certainly at all machinists shops. You should be befriending these folks =
any way. Go make some new friends. LOL.
Rick Alexander
----- Original Message -----=20
From: jesse and monica=20
To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org=20
Sent: Sunday, December 15, 2002 11:36 PM
Subject: Re:Rod Bolts...to replace or not to replace....that is the =
question...
Hey Rick,
Thanks for the input. I have one more question. So if i replace the =
rod bolts, are they pressed into the connecting rod?
How do you remove them? Do you need a press to do so? I have my new =
pistons hooked up to the rods already and am deciding
if i should go ahead and replace the bolts. Please any input would be =
great....
thanks all,
jesse
just coming to the list from the Type3.org list....
Welcome to non-lurk mode.
These questions I'm sure of as opposed to this mornings mess up.
The new rod bolts are cheap insurance. The characteristics of the old =
bolts
changed when they were torqued up the first time. They don't even have =
the
same length as they did prior to the original installation.
It isn't hard to clean a crank the right way and you will be amazed at =
what
has been compacted in there by centrigical force even in 90 thousand =
miles.
When you drill the plugs out you will find that the compacted dirt =
behind
the plugs is often as hard as the plugs. I don't put the original =
style
plugs back in, I tap the hole and put Allen head set screws in with
locktite. For me this is a whole lot more confidence inspiring. =
Besides you
will be able to easily clean it the next time through.
Good luck and try to stay out of lurk mode.
Rick Alexander
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C2A4EB.626BD8A0
Content-Type: text/html;
charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META http-equiv=3DContent-Type content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.50.4030.2400" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG>Jesse,</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>I have a press so I don't know any short cuts. They are not =
all=20
that tight in there and maybe a drill press would do it or a vise. I'd =
certainly=20
give that a try. I don't know why, just a feeling on my part =
actually, but=20
I would not drive them with a hammer.</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>BTW there are presses available at most "hands on" repair =
shops and=20
certainly at all machinists shops. You should be befriending these folks =
any=20
way. Go make some new friends. LOL.</STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG></STRONG> </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Rick Alexander</STRONG></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"PADDING-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px">
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<DIV=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
<A title=3Djjmojo@blazenet.net =
href=3D"mailto:jjmojo@blazenet.net";>jesse and=20
monica</A> </DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A =
title=3Dscirocco-l@scirocco.org=20
href=3D"mailto:scirocco-l@scirocco.org";>scirocco-l@scirocco.org</A> =
</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, December 15, 2002 =
11:36=20
PM</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re:Rod Bolts...to =
replace or not=20
to replace....that is the question...</DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>Hey Rick,<BR>Thanks for the input. I have one more =
question. So=20
if i replace the rod bolts, are they pressed into the connecting =
rod?<BR>How=20
do you remove them? Do you need a press to do so? I have my new =
pistons hooked=20
up to the rods already and am deciding<BR>if i should go ahead and =
replace the=20
bolts. Please any input would be great....<BR>thanks =
all,<BR>jesse<BR>just=20
coming to the list from the Type3.org list....<BR><BR><?color><?param =
33BF,2B89,FFFF>Welcome to non-lurk=20
mode.<BR><BR>These questions I'm sure of as opposed to this mornings =
mess=20
up.<BR><BR>The new rod bolts are cheap insurance. The characteristics =
of the=20
old bolts<BR>changed when they were torqued up the first time. They =
don't even=20
have the<BR>same length as they did prior to the original=20
installation.<BR><BR>It isn't hard to clean a crank the right way and =
you will=20
be amazed at what<BR>has been compacted in there by centrigical force =
even in=20
90 thousand miles.<BR>When you drill the plugs out you will find that =
the=20
compacted dirt behind<BR>the plugs is often as hard as the plugs. I =
don't put=20
the original style<BR>plugs back in, I tap the hole and put Allen head =
set=20
screws in with<BR>locktite. For me this is a whole lot more confidence =
inspiring. Besides you<BR>will be able to easily clean it the next =
time=20
through.<BR><BR>Good luck and try to stay out of lurk =
mode.<BR><BR>Rick=20
Alexander<?/color></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>
------=_NextPart_000_0018_01C2A4EB.626BD8A0--