[16v] low end torque problem found!

[treed2@u.washington.edu (T. Reed)]

Well.. as much evidence as I had that the knock sensor system was to
blame, it seems that is not the case.

I previously checked my cam sprocket to crank sprocket alignment and every
time it has been dead on. Today I tried to re-time the car (ignition) but
at full distributor rotation I couldn't even glimpse the 6 degrees mark
in the bellhousing hole - it was on 0 degrees TDC with the distributor
turned all the way. So I turned the engine over by hand to TDC and noted
that the distributor was not at TDC .. the rotor was pointing a few
degrees in the advance direction. That would be normal though because it
changes with how much the distributor is twisted.

So now I was thinking: the mechanical part of the distributor is set
correctly - the knock brain must be retarding it by 6 degrees all the time
(hence I'm unable to set the timing).

This hypothesis was quickly blown out of the water when I noticed that
while the sprockets read TDC, the flywheel mark for TDC was no where in
sight.

I checked twice and confirmed w/ the screwdriver-down-the-spark-plug-hole
test that my crank sprocket and flywheel are not correctly aligned.

I know why, too. The keyway on the crank that the sprocket locks in to is
all smooshed and oversized. Despite being torqued to 175 or so ft-lbs
around 12 months ago, the sprocket has rotated in the larger "key hole"
and is no longer aligned with the crank as it should be.

I bought a new sprocket and bolt for it last summer and tried to make it
work but I knew it wouldn't last forever.

By eyeballing it, it looks like I'm about 2 teeth off. I don't know
whether that's cam retard or cam advance but I do know that I have lots of
power up high and nothing at all down low. You do the math.

I'm not interesting in pissing away a lot of money for nothing so it's 2
liter time, not "pull engine and replace crank" time. I need the scoop.
What block should I use (it's 3A(?) or ABA, right?), how should I get the
engine out of the car (I have lots of tools but no engine stands or
hoists), do I need an exhaust manifold spacer or any other adapters, etc..

I'm also now in the market for a 2 liter shortblock in the
Washington/Oregon/BC area. I don't want to rebuild so it's gotta be in
good shape.

For now, I figure i'll either leave it alone or try to move the belt 2
teeth over to compensate for the sprocket. What do you guys think?
I don't -think- it will get any worse (ie.. more teeth off) because the
key "hole" is only about 1.5 - 1.75 times as wide as the key in the
sprocket. I bet it has shifted all the way over already. In that case it
probably wouldn't hurt anything to leave it how it is (other than the
obvious PITA to drive problem).

Exactly how many teeth do you have to jump to make valves kiss pistons?

The other thing I don't know is if the sprocket is actually loose enough
to shift around while revving up or down. I mean.. I don't want my cam
timing changing by a couple teeth when I downshift and then changing back
when I step on the gas. Not that I can help it if thats the case, but I
don't wanna try to compensate for the 2 teeth if its gonna make my head
blow up.



...

And as if this whole fiasco wasn't enough.. my A/C _exploded_ the other
day!

I had it on while idling in my driveway when I heard a high pitched noise.
Wasn't sure if it was just belts or something so I listened to see if I
could find where it was coming from. Then I noticed that the A/C was
blowing hot air instead of cold. I turned it on and off a couple times and
listened to see if the compressor clutch was turning on and off. It was..
then all the sudden the high pitched noise turned in to a squeal, then a
screeEEEch. And **KABOOM** !! White smoke and vapor everywhere. A cloud
enveloped the car as refrigerant and oil shot out from under my hood
(which was up at the time). I felt like I was at one of those midnight
Disneyland laser shows.

It was the coolest thing my car has ever done completely by its self.. and
the most expensive (well, maybe not anymore.. stupid crank keyway).

So.. I'm pissed that I spent $55 fixing my A/C only to have it blow up
(guess I could have used R12 and felt worse about it though) - but on the
plus side it will get rid of all that A/C crap that takes up space under
the hood (I have big hands) and extra weight and extra rotating mass. So
I need non-A/C instructions and parts as well. But I want to keep my power
steering.

I've decided to pull it rather than fix it because obviously there's stuff
wrong with it if it blew up. I only used 2 lbs of R-134a, too. My theory
at the moment is that something clogged the expansion valve (dirt, rust,
old dessicant, oil globs?) and the high side pressure switch was defective
and didn't shut off the compressor so the safety release on the
receiver-drier blew. At least that's what it looks like. I can't tell if
the oil all over my engine came from the drier or the pressure switches.
They both look like the point of origin and they're in the same vicinity.



So now I've got plenty of car problems to face.. not particularly looking
forward to any of them but I guess that's always true.

-Toby