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Is 240 watt 1/4" electric die grinder ok for P&P?



--- Marc scirocco Québec <marc_scirocco@yahoo.ca> wrote:
> I just did part of mine yesterday, now I need a valve
> spring compression tool to remove my valves. And
> complete the job. Bow Wow has one, hopefully they have
> it in stock, or perhaps if I am lucky, someone in
> town.

Since I've got way too much work to do on the car right now, I'm
farming out the rebuild job (found a shop that'll do it for $250 Can.) 
I'm going to P&P it myself though...

> 
> It is not that hard, start with grinding stone, then
> 40 grit, then 80 grit, then 120 flap wheel, then the
> little buffer wheel, especially the exhaust side.
> 


I'm ordering the Standard Abrasives kit today.  It looks like it'll
have everything I need...


> The intake side is almost the right size, the exhaust
> side is a bit more involved to do, as there is more
> metal to remove, but you wont go through to the water
> jacket.
> 
> Don't forget to do the intake manifold while you are
> at it. Get somebody to weld some metal in the back
> right between the two throttle body screw holes. Then
> grind the opening for the neuspeed/A2 throttle body.
> Eyeball it, you'll see where it needs metal once the
> opening is done the right way, just like TT does it
> (for 300$). Save money! buy more beer!

I don't have to worry about this because I'm using an A2 throttle body
AND intake manifold (larger runners).  I moved the fuel distributor to
the pass side already with my last swap, so thankfully that work is
done!


 
> Where about are you located?
> 
> Cheers.


Welland, ON (10 minutes from Niagara Falls)  Are you near Montreal?  I
might be driving up there soon...


Mark.


 
>  --- Mardak <maardak@yahoo.ca> a écrit : > Ya, that
> and the post from Shawn Meze gave me the
> > confidence to try
> > P&Ping my head.  My machinist is letting me take it
> > home at various
> > stages to do some work myself...  He suggested that
> > I take it after
> > he's disassembled it, and removed the valve guides. 
> > He said it was
> > easier to port and polish with them removed, and to
> > "tear-drop" the
> > guides after installing them (after the p&p job). 
> > Make sense?
> > 
> > Thanks!
> > 
> > Mark.
> > 
> > --- Allyn <amalventano1@comcast.net> wrote:
> > > Mark,
> > >     The important factor is that you never go over
> > 20000 rpm when
> > > doing a p&p. Actually, most
> > > abbrasives work best/last longest at 10000 rpm.
> > Electric ones tend to
> > > be overzealous on the speed
> > > and well chew through bits in no time. Be sure to
> > check out this
> > > site:
> > > http://www.sa-motorsports.com/
> > > they have a couple of extremely good diy guides in
> > acrobat format, as
> > > well as the fact that they
> > > make all of the kits necessary to do the job.
> > > Enjoy!
> > > Al
> > > 
> > > 
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Mardak" <maardak@yahoo.ca>
> > > To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > > Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 2:34 PM
> > > Subject: Is 240 watt 1/4" electric die grinder ok
> > for P&P?
> > > 
> > > 
> > > > I own a dremel tool, but I think it would be a
> > bit light for a P&P
> > > job.
> > > >  I found some cheap electric die grinders on
> > ebay (here's one:
> > > >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1723007055)
> > > >
> > > > Would these be better?  I know air tools are
> > recommended, but I
> > > don't
> > > > own a compressor...
> > > >
> > > > Thanks,
> > > >
> > > > Mark.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
>
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> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
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> > > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > > 
> > 
> > 
> >
>
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> 
> __________________________________________________________
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