decent wheel lug/stud combos

[PhilipM3@tiac.net (Philip P. Mueller III)]

> Umm...what exactly do you define as "hub-centric"?
>
> My definition is that the hub carries the weight of
> the wheel via the center ring/flange, instead of via
> the bolts. This means the bolts are only responsible
> for keeping the wheel on the hub (tensile stress) and
> do not have to carry any shear loads.

Exactly.

> If that's correct, the spacers are hub-centric as long
> as they're either a good bit thinner than the factory
> hubring (like 5mm) or *significantly* thicker (see
> below). On 5 or 8mm spacers, the center ring on the
> hub sticks out farther than that already, so there's
> nothing H&R can (or needs) to do about it. They
> maintain the factory hub-centric-ness.
>
> The only way H&R could make what you guys are talking
> about is if the spacer were significantly thicker than
> the hubring, in which case the spacer would be
> hub-centric to the hub, and the spacer would have a
> machined ring on it so that the wheel would be
> hub-centric to the spacer. The *back* of that ring
> would have to be beyond the normal hub ring, and would
> then need to be thick enough to carry the necessary
> weight. That's probably not even possible on anything
> less than a 20mm spacer!

I agree, & I have seen pictures of H&R spacers made this way.

> If you need spacers that are more-or-less the same
> thickness as the ring on the hub...there's just not
> much you can do without custom-machining your own hub.
> Try to think about how you would solve *that*
> situation before you go saying a good product is crap.

I agree, I was pointing out, that 16mm spacers are not what they claimed
them to be.  They were sold as hubcentric, which is physically impossible=
 in
that thickness, so yes, they basically ARE CRAP.

> BTW, the taper goes INWARDS so that the spacer fits
> properly over the inside curve made between the hub
> ring and the hub face. If you installed it backwards
> and tightened the bolts, you've now got tweaked
> spacers!

Yes, I know that.  They are tapered for the same reason that the wheels a=
re,
to clear the radius between the mating surface of the hub/drum & the part
that protrudes outward to support the wheel.  If the wheels did not have
this taper, they would work with the spacers, but not without them.

> I have the 8mm rear spacers on my 16v, and they leave
> enough of the hub ring exposed to carry the weight. I
> can "hang" the tire on the hub while I grab for the
> bolts. They are also perfectly machined to be a
> slip-fit over the hubring. They're much better than
> anything else I've seen. If you know of anything
> better, let me know!

Ok, that is why I was thinking maybe the 8mm, would be better, since the
16mm do not work that way.  You haven't said anything that I disagree wit=
h
or haven't thought of on my own.  I was just pointing out the fact that t=
he
16mm ones do not function as the hubcentric spacers they are advertised a=
s
so someone else does not waste their money as I did.

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Philip P. Mueller III
Westbrook, CT - USA
mailto:philipm3@tiac.net
http://www.p3racing.net
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