Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.

["Brad Sayer" <vwrocco85@hotmail.com>]

Techtonics Tuning sells new mounts in new brackets.

Brad


_____________________
1987 16V Scirocco
vwrocco85@hotmail.com



>From: "Allyn" <amalventano1@home.com>
>To: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>, <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>, 
>"Cheapass Ron Pieper" <rapieper@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.
>Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2001 15:03:16 -0400
>
>Marc,
>Im pretty sure its only dealers that get them this way. Either that or my
>dealer is all f***ed up, which would be no surprise to me.
>Al
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>
>To: "Allyn" <amalventano1@home.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>; "Cheapass
>Ron Pieper" <rapieper@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:53 PM
>Subject: Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.
>
>
> > Damnit!!!
> > I ordered these from Adirondack, and they didn't mention a thing about
> > pre-pressed brackets.  Crap.  The first time I decided not to order
> > something from Potterman, and I make more work for myself.  The VW gods
>must
> > be loving that.
> >
> > I vow never to order a part from anyone other than Mike Potter ever 
>again.
> > Unless its Kristen Potter.
> >
> > Marc
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Allyn" <amalventano1@home.com>
> > To: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>;
><scirocco-l@scirocco.org>;
> > "Cheapass Ron Pieper" <rapieper@yahoo.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 2:39 PM
> > Subject: Re: Engine mounts R&R questions.
> >
> >
> > > - preps:
> > > put the front end up on jackstands (you will need the jack for the
> > engine).
> > > remove wheels associated with the mount side you are changing.
> > > disconnect +12v.
> > > remove all belts, timing belt included.
> > > - front/rear:
> > > remove front and rear mounts (easy)
> > > - passenger side:
> > > support engine. loosten passenger side mount center bolt, raise engine
> > > slightly to ease removal of the bracket bolts (these require a hex
>driver,
> > 6
> > > or 7 mm i think). Now lower engine low enough to remove the
>bracket/mount
> > > combo. Put new mount in bracket (see bottom). reinstall bracket. only
> > screw
> > > in the center bolt a few turns, dont torque unless the engine is where
>it
> > > needs to be (i.e. level), and you dont intend to move it any further
>(i.e.
> > > not changing trans mount). pivoting engine mount after torqued will
> > destroy
> > > the rubber and nullify your work.
> > > - driver side (trans):
> > > ensure passenger side mount is INSTALLED (you're about to undo the 
>last
> > > thing holding it in if its not installed). also ensure the center bolt
>is
> > > NOT torqued (see above). remove lower strut tie bar (16v), if 
>installed
> > > (between the a-arms). You will have to drop the transmission side of 
>the
> > > engine beyond where this bar will let it go. This is to get the mount
> > > bracket bolts to clear the frame as you try to remove them. It also
>allows
> > > easier removal of the ground strap from the mount bracket. It is
>suggested
> > > that you remove this bar FIRST, before unbolting any part of the mount
> > > (safety). You will be way under the engine getting this bar off. Ok,
> > enough
> > > about the damn bar (heh), once its off, support engine, remove the
>center
> > > mount bolt (easier if battery is removed). lower trans side of engine
> > until
> > > you can get to the bracket bolts from the wheel well. Remove ground
>strap
> > > from mount bracket. Remove bracket-to-tranny nuts/bolts (note: some 
>have
> > > nuts spot welded to bracket, some dont). Put new mount in bracket
>(again,
> > > see below). Reinstall. When putting everything together, be sure you
>have
> > > the center mount bolt in before you go fumbling around under the 
>engine
> > > trying to get the lower strut tie bar back in (i dont want anyone
>killing
> > > themselves over an engine mount :).
> > > - the changing of the mount:
> > > ok, most dealerships now receive these things pre-installed in the
> > > appropriate bracket, so some dealerships have no clue how to press 
>them
>in
> > > properly. The dealership i tried didnt even have the press kit for it
> > > anymore! Anyhow, find a nice WWII table mounted vice (the kind that
> > > resembles what buggs might drop on daffy). You will also need a 
>hacksaw
> > (the
> > > kind with the wingnut to tighten the blade). Put the mount bracket in
>the
> > > vice (clamp it on a flat spot, not the circle that the mount is in).
>Take
> > > the blade off the hacksaw, run it through a hole in the rubber mount,
>near
> > > the outer ring. Put the hacksaw back together around the blade/mount
> > combo.
> > > Now starts the fun, commence the sawing. Be sure to oil the blade as 
>you
> > > saw, especially with that first 1/8th of rubber you have to go through
> > > before you hit the outer ring. What you are trying to accomplish is to
>saw
> > > through the mounts outer metal ring without damaging the mount 
>bracket.
> > You
> > > will have to be careful to saw evenly. Since you are going through 1" 
>of
> > > metal, it will seem to take forever. You only have to go about 
>1/16th",
>so
> > > it wont take too long. When you make it through, the mount ring will 
>try
> > to
> > > compress on the blade, so it will probably stop you from sawing
> > alltogether.
> > > Take the saw apart again, get the blade out of there, and tap the 
>mount
> > out
> > > of the bracket (it will be VERY easy). Now you get to see just how
>strong
> > > your ghosen vice is. Put a thin layer of grease on the outer enge of 
>the
> > new
> > > mount, to ease starting. Steal 2 pairs of ratchet extensions fron your
> > > neighbors. Each pair needs to be the same thickness. Use these 2 pairs
>as
> > > spacers on either side of the center mount pin so you can compress the
> > mount
> > > into the bracket without killing the mount. It wont be easy with this
> > > extension contraption, getting the mount started is the hardest part. 
>As
> > you
> > > press further, it will get much harder. You will most likely need a 3'
> > pipe
> > > on that vice handle.
> > >
> > > Jeesh, im too wordy, hope this helps though.
> > > Al
> > >
> > > Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
> > > 87 Rieger GTO Scirocco 16v (daily driver, 170k, rocco #6) running - 
>for
> > now
> > > 87 Jetta 8v Wolfsburg 2dr (daily driver, 260k, 0 rattles, original
>clutch,
> > > driveshafts, wheels :)
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Marc Peterson" <mpeters6@rochester.rr.com>
> > > To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > > Sent: Wednesday, October 24, 2001 1:12 PM
> > > Subject: Engine mounts R&R questions.
> > >
> > >
> > > > After watching my engine rock back and forth during the dyno day, it
>was
> > > > suggested that I replace all the motor mounts.  I went ahead and
>ordered
> > > > them.
> > > >
> > > > The one one the front, and the lower trans mount seem straight
>forward,
> > > but
> > > > the upper trans mount and the pass side mount seem weird.  Do you 
>have
> > to
> > > > remove the mount holder thingie off the engine and then press the
>mount
> > > out?
> > > > It seems that to get the pass side mount holder off the engine, the
> > engine
> > > > would have to be either raised or dropped a good deal, 4+ inches.  
>On
> > the
> > > > upper trans mount (under the battery) the holder looks easier to get
>at,
> > > but
> > > > do you still need to press the mount out?
> > > >
> > > > I don't have a press. :(
> > > >
> > > > Help?
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > --
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> > >
> > >
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> > >
> >
> >
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>
>
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