Re: [tech] -removing and rekeying door lock and rear hatch lock

[Cheapass Ron <rapieper@yahoo.com>]

I seem to recall that there was a small roll pin in
the hatch lock...I put a small punch in my vise, then
set the lock on top, and with a mallet tapped lightly
down on the lock assy. body to push out the roll pin.

Yes, having the key in helps.

Do this at the kitchen table with some FI or brake
cleaner at hand, as well as some light oil.  So you
don't ruin the kitchen table, use the broiler pan to
protect it.  ;)

Tiny needle nose are advisable for pulling out the
tumblers.  Keep notes on paper of what you removed and
what orientation it was in, so you can reassemble.

Don't use graphite unless you want your hands and
pockets dirty!

Replace that round seal that the lock fits in (the one
in the hatch).  Looks much nicer when done!

BTW I did not have to bend the S-clip, merely swearing
at it worked for me.

Good Luck!

Ron
--- drew <drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca> wrote:
> 
> It's by far and away the worst lock to rekey (I'm
> assuming MkII here,) but
> it's not that bad.  I did it on Carrots earlier this
> year, as I too was
> sick of using two keys (actually, I have central
> locking, so I always
> unlocked the car before opening the hatch - it
> wasn't too bad.  I never
> even carried the hatch key with me.)
> 
> You have to remove the lock assembly from the hatch
> and the remove the
> snap ring that retains the lock cylinder in the lock
> assembly.  Once
> that's out, you can either swap in your donor
> cylinder like I did, or
> install the new "tumblers," being careful not to
> lose any of those little
> springs.
> 
> Removal of the lock assembly is not the easiest
> thing to do, but it's not
> THAT hard either.  Although it has been a while, I
> remember removing the
> access panels on the inside of the hatch, as well as
> removing the rear
> wiper shaft nut so I could move the wiper motor out
> of the way to get at
> the lock.  You want to pay attention to the
> orientation of the linkage
> that goes to the latch, as well as to the central
> locking actuator, if so
> equipped.
> 
> I had some trouble getting the lock to work properly
> when I reinstalled
> it. I believe I ended up having to bend the 'S'
> linkage that goes from the
> lock to the latch slightly in order to get reliable
> locking/unlocking
> action in all three positions.
> 
> HTH,
> 
> Drew
> 
> On Fri, 1 Jun 2001, Victor Farren wrote:
> 
> > Anyone do this and have any tips for me?  I
> imagine I should have the
> > key in the lock before pulling it out.  Any 'been
> there done that'
> > experience would be great.  I am getting tired of
> using 2 keys all the
> > time.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Victor
> > 
> > 
> > --
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> 
> Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of
> Guelph
> 
> drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the
> Massey-Harris page:
> http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   | 
> http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca
> 
> 
> --
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