Re: [16v] clutch slips when warm

[T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>]

- 30 mm socket w/ 1/2" drive + 2" Breaker bar for front axle nut, 1/2" x
2" extension.
- 12 Point (Triple Square) driver(s set) 8 mm for sure.
- Liquid Wrench
- Assorted metric sockets/wrenches, esp 10, 11, 13, 17, 19 mm.
- 9 mm twelve point socket for Flywheel bolts.
- Possibly 8 mm Hex wrench for starter bolt(s).
- Support for Motor; engine hoist, stout tree w/ rope, block & tackle,
4x4 cut to fit the exact width of the hood (don't rest on _top_ edge of fenders).
- 17 mm socket that fits breaker bar. (See next.)
- Coat hanger wire to secure pressure plate/crank  from rotating while
removing half doz. 17 mm bolts. 
- A little bearing grease (just a little) to coat the splines with to
promote future slipperiness.
- Plastic Zip Lock Baggies to A. Collect related bolts in, & B. Slip
over exposed CV joint/ Drive Flange ends. (Cleanliness is next to Godliness.)

- Rear Main Seal
- Bronze Bushing (pushrod guide)
- Pushrod Seal
- Transaxle Spline Seal (exact name?)
- Friction Disk

Time to inspect whether your Drive Axle Flanges are leaking trans fluid.
 (I'm 2 for 2 in the 9A dept., the ol' FF if OK so far.)


I'd leave the whole weekend open to do it the 1st time, with an early
start on Sat morning you can get it done in a few hours. 
The Clutch disk itself, if oil soaked, is toast but the pressure plate
stands a good chance (since it's so new) of being cleaned with some
brake cleaner and living to fly another day.


hth,
TBerk
Uw con doEeeeeeeet!

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