RE: [A2] Timing belt replacement

["Aaron Ness" <aaron@makuta.com>]

It's actually a 6mm hex key you'll need - don't get it from Sears as they
are junk.  I easily rounded one off on my '84, and we quit using them at
work a long time ago for that reason.  I bought a set of Blackhawk 3/8"
drive hex keys (I think that's Stanley's professional brand) and although
the set cost $35, it was worth it and they won't get stripped or twist off
like the Craftsman set.  This is also what we use at work for molds and
injection molding machines.

Sometimes you can get the screws out by using two wrenches, holding one
screw in place, and loosening another.  This sounds kind of crazy if you
haven't done it before, but it can work.  On my '84, I used a big strap
wrench to hold the water pump pulley in place while I loosened each screw.
In my experience, this pulley is the tough one.

After that, it's cake.  You don't need any special tool to tension the
belt - I think the manual says it's tensioned properly when the midpoint of
the section between the cam and intermediate shaft can be twisted 90*.  I
put it in place and tightened the tensioner, and it was right on, on two
different cars.

Good luck, and enjoy...

Aaron
'87 528e
'82 Scirocco
'70 Beetle
'87 Jeep Cherokee 4.0


> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> [mailto:owner-scirocco-l@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Steven Mikolajczuk
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 7:12 PM
> To: Brian C Barrows; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: Re: [A2] Timing belt replacement
>
>
> If it is anything like the A1's, I would buy the pulley
> removal tool, I got
> mine from techtonics, also the tool used to adjust the
> tensionor, I made one
> from sheet metal and 2 screws, you will know how to make it
> when you see the
> tensionor.  The majority of my time was spent removing the
> pulleys, I had to
> drill out one of the bolts.  I believe they are 8mm allen
> head, get the
> socket from sears or somewhere like that( get 2 if you don't
> have the tool -
> one to crack the bolt, and one to hold the pulley in place,
> also had luck
> with a cut up old v-belt and a pair of vice grips to hold the
> pulley in
> place, or you can just "sneak up" on them with an impact
> wrench )you will
> get better torque than with a traditional allen wrench.  You
> can't use hex
> bolts as replacements because you will not be able to ge a
> socket around
> them when they are close to the edge of the pulley( I tried
> ).  Mine looked
> straight forward and turned out to more than a 4 beer job.  I
> forget how the
> A2's are set up, its been a few years, so none of this may be
> applicable,
> just my 2 cents on my experience.
>
> Steve
>
> 85 wolfsburg
> 86 16v - soon to be 2.0l (friday!)
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian C Barrows" <ferret100@juno.com>
> To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Monday, April 02, 2001 7:46 PM
> Subject: [A2] Timing belt replacement
>
>
> > Well, I'm going to replace my timing belt this weekend.  The whole
> > proceedure looks pretty simple and all, but is there
> anything I should be
> > prepared for?  I plan on soaking all of the bolts that need
> to come off
> > in some Mil-spec petetrant given to me by the Minnisota Air
> Nat'l Guard
> > (Thanks guys!) beforehand.  Should I go and get new bolts for the
> > vibration damper pulley, etc?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > B.
> >
> > '82 Scirocco (a.k.a. "Fritz") SOLD
> > '85 Jetta
> > '87 Porsche 944
> >
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