Re: Tie rod problem

["Ewan Hopkins" <ewanhopkins@hotmail.com>]

A technique I've used which has worked every time is to hit the hub carrier 
arm end-on, as in the diagram below (you need to use your imagination a 
bit!), using a 2lb mallet, or something similar. The shock usually breaks 
the rust and it pops out with a gentle tap on the rod-end itself.  The 
carrier arm will take a fair bit of pounding without breaking (YMMV of 
course!). Both hub carrier & tie-rod are perfectly re-usable doing it this 
way.

direction-->  (0)=== hub carrier arm
to hit        |
               |
             tie rod


Ewan Hopkins...

'85 Storm 2.0
'86 GT 1.8


>From: T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>
>To: DavidG1952@aol.com
>CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: Tie rod problem
>Date: Sun, 07 May 2000 11:57:17 -0700
>
>DavidG1952@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I noticed that the tie-rod on the left side of the wheel bearing housing 
>was
> > non-ajustable as compared to the other side. Is this normal? My other 
>MK1 has
> > adjustments for both sides.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > David Guido
> >
>
>
>Yeah like John said the replacements are the same for Left or Right and
>are adjustable. The early cars all came with just one adjustable T rod.
>
>As for a puller I keep seeing these instructions to whack the end with
>two hammers, being careful to
>avoiding damage to the part that plugs into it. It's like two
>simultaneous hits from opposite sides and boom, it pops out a bit. Never
>did it myself but hth,
>
>TBerk
>
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