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Re: Brake Problems



Dave,
I did a little experiment today. Started the car , the brakes seemed fine, drove
it onto the street and let it idle  and heat up for 20 minutes. Got back in and
felt the brake pedal. The travel had decreased.The wheels and brakes were still
cold since they were barely used. Drove off slowly and felt them sticking a bit.
This tells me that the problem has nothing to do with calipers,lines or master
cyl.(since it was replaced).
It is definitely related to the engine heat, which is affecting the vacuum line
going into the booster or the booster itself. Can this still have something to
do with the rod you were talking about(I didn't get a chance to check this yet)?
What is your opinion? Is my booster shot? It  seems to apply pressure  fine(and
not lose it or get mushy) until it gets hot then something happens and itbuilds
pressure and doesn't release it until it cools down.
John

Dave Ewing wrote:

> NO!!  All you have to do is take the two nuts off that attaches the master
> to the booster and pull it back far enough to look inside the booster.  Do
> not remove any of the brake lines, they are pretty flexable so you should be
> able to pull it back about 3-6 inches.  Just take a flashlight and check.
> This would atleast let you know that it is probably in the prop valves.  I
> can't see it being anything else unless your brakes are locking up on only
> one side?  If so, then a caliper is a suspect.  HTH!!
>
> Dave
>
> > If I remove the m. cylinder to check if the rod is in place, I'll have to
> bleed
> > the m. cylinder, correct? How do I do this?
> > John
> >
> > Dave Ewing wrote:
> >
> > > You might also just want to take the two nuts off of the master and pry
> it
> > > back and look inside to make sure the rod is in place.  When I test
> drove
> > > the care that the rod moved on me on, the brakes seemed fine at first,
> but
> > > locked up later after driving for a little while.  If you do this, be
> > > careful not to let the rod fall into the booster, it makes putting it
> back
> > > alot easier.  Plus, I forgot to list the 3rd option of fixing the
> > > problem---New booster!!  HTH!
> > >
> > > Dave
> > >
> > > > The brakes seem fine when I first drive the car. If the rod was out of
> > > place,
> > > > wouldn't I feel this right away? I am beginning to think that the
> booster
> > > or
> > > > vacuum gets affected by  the high heat coming off my headers ( It
> melted
> > > my
> > > > shifter bushings!). I am going to test this tomorrow by just starting
> the
> > > car
> > > > and letting it idle and produce heat for a while.Then if the brakes
> hold
> > > when I
> > > > start to drive, I'll know  it is probably booster related.
> > > > John
> > > >
> > > > Dave Ewing wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > I have actually installed a master cylinder and had the fronts lock
> up
> > > when
> > > > > the rod inside the booster falls out of place.  Fairly rare, but not
> so
> > > rare
> > > > > when you 'recently' replaced the master cylinder.  To put it back
> into
> > > > > place, there are a couple ways to do it.  First though, it is NOT a
> fun
> > > > > job!!  Anyway, the first way is to fish the rod out of the booster.
> > > Then,
> > > > > if you look inside the booster, you will see three little tabs that
> the
> > > flat
> > > > > end of the rod is supposte to be in.  You need to get it back in
> place.
> > > A
> > > > > few options are:  1.  Put it on the end of the master, slam the
> master
> > > back
> > > > > in and drive it.  If you can slam on the brakes a few times and hear
> a
> > > loud
> > > > > POP noise, you've got it.  Another way is to just fiddle with it in
> the
> > > car
> > > > > until you get it back into place.  The best way, but the most
> > > irritating, is
> > > > > to pull the booster and do it on the bench.  This way atleast you
> know
> > > it
> > > > > will be right!!  Good luck, HTH, and I hope this ISN'T the problem
> (but
> > > it
> > > > > sounds like the symptoms)!!!!!
> > > > >
> > > > > Dave
> > > > >
> > > > > > I am still having this sticking problem with my front brakes. When
> I
> > > > > > drive for 20-30 minutes or less when it's hot, the brakes start to
> > > hold
> > > > > > and the brake pedal travel decreases. So far I have changed both
> > > > > > calipers ( rebuilt, with new bushings ,teflon) Master cylinder,
> and
> > > now
> > > > > > I put in Neuspeed stainless steel lines and bled them well. What
> else
> > > > > > could it be? Proportioning valve?  Booster? pedal pushrod to
> booster?
> > > > > > Help!
> > > > > > John
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe
> send
> > > > > > "unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > Email problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org  To unsubscibe send
> > > > > "unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to majordomo@scirocco.org
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
> >




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