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Re: Broken Studs




Here's an excerpt from a post I sent a week ago:  One addition: tap the
screq extractor into the stud with a hammer before attempting to remove
it - vibration makes the difference.  Also, a small air drill may be
required for those upper studs - I usually do this job with the engine out
of the car - once or twice with it in.

"For broken studs, a screw extractor has always worked well for me.  
Drill out the centre of the stud, taking care to keep the drill straight
and true.  You should not need to use a very large extractor, as the stud
should not take a lot of effort to remove, and the vibration from the
drilling helps to loosen the stud threads in the same way that the
hammering does.  I have yet to find a broken stud that won't turn out with
mild pressure on the screw extractor (YMMV.)

Simply replace broken or corroded studs (or studs with nuts frozen onto
them) with new ones, use all new 12mm copper locknuts, new gaskets, and a
4-2 or 4-2-1 manifold (throw out the 4-1 stock boat anchor) and you're
away."

Drew (84 Wolfsburg)




On Fri, 14 Jul 2000, Warren, John B wrote:

> Listers,
>  I took my exhaust manifold off a couple of nites ago. Wouldn't you know, I
> twisted off a stud in the process. It's broken off below the surface of the
> head, so I don't know exactly how I'm gonna get it out. I figured somebody
> on the list would have an innovative way of getting broken studs out short
> of pulling the head.
> 
> Thanks,
> JW
> 
> 
> 
> 
> John Warren III
> Systems Analyst
> IT SCADA & Realtime Apps
> Williams Gas Pipelines - South Central
> (270)688-6348
> 
> 
> --
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> 

Drew MacPherson, Network Analyst, University of Guelph

drew@dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca           |  visit the Massey-Harris page:
http://dyermaker.cs.uoguelph.ca/~drew   |  http://m-h.cs.uoguelph.ca


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