RE: Reverse Lock Out

[Gary Huff <ghuff@htech.com>]

<x-charset iso-8859-1>I thought the gap was 15mm?! Someone correct me if I am wrong, as I will be
doing this while my car is headless.

		-----Original Message-----
		From:	T Berk [mailto:tberk@mindspring.com]
		Sent:	Monday, December 27, 1999 8:39 PM
		To:	theburntkid@yahoo.com
		Cc:	scirocco-l@scirocco.org
		Subject:	Re: Reverse Lock Out

		Paul Maione wrote:
		> 
		> Hey everyone.
		> 
		> My shifter is giving me problems. I cut my original
		> one down a bit too short, so when I was at Waterfest,
		> I picked one up from a some guy selling an original
		> sized one. Ever since I installed it, I lost the lock
		> that would prevent you from shifting into reverse
		> without pushing down. It's just starting to get to me.
		> Is this a problem with the shifter arm I bought
		> (bushings and stuff like that) or did something go
		> haywire in the installation of the new one?
		> 
		> Thanks!
		> 
		> =====
		> Paul Maione (The Burnt Kid)


		Burnt,

		I think you need to square up the shifter mech. and linkage.
Note- you
		prob. DON'T need to loosen the long bar w/ splines as it is
prob. not
		the problem.

		Under the shifter lever boot you will see the flat plate, it
should have
		two holes in it. THese get lined up w/ some holes under it
on the car
		body.

		Also, from under the car you will see the bottom of the
shifter mech.
		has a C shaped part that acts as the reverse lock out. It
may take some
		disassembly of the rubber surround to get at it and having a
helper run
		through the gears helps to visualize things.

		I believe the gap should be 10 mm when the shifter is in the
middle of
		neutral. Someone mentioned a cassette case as a good
thickness to use.

		hth,
		TBerk

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