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[16v] now my car is screwed! any suggestions?



Ok, ive exhausted my knowledge, or at least as much as
I can remeber...show me true enlightenment!

Symptom: Driving home from work through 30 miles of semi
residential streets, the first stop i come to the car 
idle dips a bit, each subsequent stop the idle dips again
to around 400-500 and almost stalls. Now each time
progressively the car seems more sluggish off the line,
then at the stops, my oil light flickers. at this point
the car barely is able to chug up to 2krpm then the power
kicks in..2 stops later the car wont budge, just sits there
and idles, cant rev it up!

What I did: I pushed the car off onto a sidestreet while
still idling, sounded ok, turned car off. Car restarted
but as soon as I moved the throttle open a bit the car
would studder and then die. car would start fine but thats
all it would do.

Then what I did: 
+ I dicsonnected 1-4 plug wire and each time the car 
  stuttered badly so i'ts firing in all 4 cyls.
+ I checked the idle screw and boot and all hoses no vaccume
  leaks at all, air filter is fine not clogged
+ disconnected and inspected the 2 swiches on the fuel dist
  and the one on the back of the t-body, all looked ok

so i tow roped it in front of my moms house which was only 1
mile away. There I...
+ replaced the whole fuel dist/fpr unit with one that was in my
  running red 16v that i wrecked.- note I actually removed the
  orig one, hit the plate and actuator with carb cleaner and
  put the orig one back on, removed it again and put the spare
  one on. Each time i tried to start the car it wouldnt start,
  just turned over and over and sounded like it was about to
  catch but died. So each time i disconnected the fuel lines
  fuel came out ..ie I had pressure.. especially a lot came out
  the cold start injector.

..so now the car doesnt even start..

+ checked the fuses replaced a broke #16
+ the fuel pump and tank are only 3 months old
+ yes I have gas 1/4 a tank
+ checked cam timing, both cam sprocket and crank marks lineup
+ checked dist, its snug and not loose so im sure it didnt move
+ hall sender connector looked solid and good.
+ physically checked the air flow plate while cranking, it
  does lift up
+ let the car sit overnight still wont start, just turns over.

..im stumped, i got spark, i got air, im pretty sure I have
fuel. I havent tested each injector but liek i said each time
there was substantial fuel pressure inthe disrtributor. 
Because fuel came out each time and isn't the air flow plate
much harder to lift up when fuel pressure exists? I sure know
a disconnected one is easy as butter to lift but the one on the
car was a challenge for 2 little fingers on a 3mm high nut.

could my ignition timing be that off for no reason? i tried
to hook up a timing light but cat tell very easily while
just trying to see while cranking a car, it just doesnt pulse
very fast to see the mark.

I do have a lightened flywheel, and i think my crank pully is
warped because it wobbles noticibly, but all 4 bolts and pully
is on very very tight. No oil leaks i had full oil the whole
time, and now accidentally is 1 quart too high...but i know
a car will start even with too much oil, it will just leak
up past the rings and burn a lot of oil...so any ideas or
things to check that I missed. I dont have a voltmeter but
i guess i could go buy one. Im really not looking forward
to removing my front bumper to get the car towed.

would a bad cold start injector cause the car not to start?
I think something is stemming back from the orig problem,
but i have no clue what could cause my car to degrade so
poorly yer still start and idle. It cranks healthy jsut doesnt
catch and even if it did catch im afraid it still wouldnt rev.

any ideas?
Ryan

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