RE: MD State infection and 16v woes

[Jonas Karlsson <jkarlsso@metabolex.com>]

Gary Huff wrote:
>List,
>	Love my 16v so far, but some questions and problems:
>
>	Problems:
>	1. Stupid oil pressure warning light goes off for no reason, but my
>gauge reads that it has about 30psi around 2k rpm 	while its 
>screaming.
>I trust VDO over the idiot light, but is this a 16v syndrome or 
>something?

does it always go on? Is it buzzing, or just flashing? The buzzer is for 
the high pressure switch, which could go bad, and not affect functioning 
of the other sender. The dual sender could also have replaved the wrong 
original switch. 


>	2. Radio reception sucks, and my fuba is a bit cracked and worn
>looking around the base, would this have to do with my 	crappy 
>reception?


Looking worn or being cracked won't affect reception, but if the 
amplifier (in the FUBA, that is) is burnt out, then reception will be 
crap. This is not uncommon. A new one is $60 at the most.  



>	3. Transmission shifts a bit rough, even after I redid all of the
>linkage and greased it. Should I change the gear lube over 	to redline
>(if I should go with redline, should I use mtl, or mt-90?) or Mobil 1
>synthetic?

 Synthetic, (be it redline, mobil1, etc.) should improve lubrication in 
the tranny, and as a result, shift feel should also improve. Have you 
checked that there is lube in there now? It may have leaked out. I 
believe MTL is what you want. 


>	4. Maryland state infection err.... inspection is picking about 
>my
>passenger side rear caliper, and how the parking brake 	wont lock 
>it. Is
>this another syndrome, any idea's on what I should check to see? 
>the cables
>are in good condition, so It 	can not be one of those.
>

don't really know, just check that it's not siezed. Jack up the rear, 
have a friend step on the brake, and see if you can turn the wheel. If 
you can, get a new caliper. 



>	Questions: 
>	1. It also needs power steering rack boots to pass inspection, 
>while
>im messing with it should I do tie rod ends? They 	have never 
>been
>replaced and I figure while I have the end puller in my 
>possession why not
>do it.

Sure, new ones are about $50 apiece, but you're pretty much there when 
installing the boots, so why not. 


>	2.  What is the favorite 	method for breaking the axle nut
>that is supposedly cranked on at like 150ft lbs or something 
>insane? and what is the 	best way to crank it back on?

IMPACT WRENCH!!! It makes it a total sinch. But before I got my air 
compressor, I did it the old fashioned way. You need a 30mm socket, a 
1/2" driver (NOT anything that has a ratchet in it, those break in a 
jiffy), and then a big ass long breaker bar to go over the driver. I 
used a 4 foot long piece of welding steel square tubing. Worked great, 
just remember to keep the front of the car on the ground while you 
loosen it. 
  To put it back on, just torque it. remember that 150 ft lbs  means that 
a force of 150 lbs needs to be applied 1 foot from the pivot. So just 
put all of your weight on the driver, without the long breaker bar that 
is. 



>	3. ummmm ok Im out of them for now :)
>
>Any info and help is appreciated :) Thanks,
>					Gary Huff 
>
>--

You're welcome, glad to help.

Jonas
85 Scirocco


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