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SV: [help][brakes]urgent



About rear calipers handbrake rusting:
If that happens, it IS possible to repair them yourself. It is alot like
changing o-rings on your front calipers. You have to buy a repair set for
the rear (cost about the double of repair set for front). Then it is a few
ours work in to do. Twice you would like to have a buddy helping you for a
total of 20 minutes. If someone intends to repair there rear calipers email
me for more info. 
The 16V i think have a load dependent regulator for the rear so when
bleeding and testing you have to have the car standing flat on the ground
(or in the air). And rolling on snow and breaking hard should lock the
rears.
But, for adjusting the rears properly you have to use the handbrake for
some times, the rear caliper pistons are fitted on a screew, they will
adjust just if you use them and the o-rings are fresh but since handbrake
already have rusted it can take long time for adjusting them by just
breaking. 
Bad handbrake cable will not aloud you to adjust the rears properly.

Roland Johansson
Scirocco 1,6l TIC -82
Http://www.oden.se/~toker/yellow.htm     (english)
Http://www.oden.se/~toker/gulturbo.htm  (svenska)

> original post:                                                           

> 
> ]].ebrake doesn't work and brake                                        
> ]]performance is still mediocre (brakes only grabbed after pedal was 1/3
> ]]to 1/2 of the way down, slightly stronger grab now).
> 
> ]]CONCLUSION: i believe that my problems can be traced to the rear brakes
> ]]and the lack of stopping power being applied to the rear wheels.  I
> ]]believe this due to a)no ebrake performance (even with new pads and new
> ]]calipers); b)generally weak brake performance all around; c)no rear
> ]]lockup on snow under full pedal.
> ]]
> ]]The problems could be:
> ]]1. bad pressure regulators
> ]]2. contaminated rear pads and/or rotors
> ]]3. old rotors
> 
> The rear wheels should not lock up under full braking.  The front wheels
> provide most of the stopping power while the rears just slow you down, in
a
> manner of speaking.  I'm not familiar with the meat and bones of the
system,
> but is it possible you're proportioning valve is bad?  Jack up the rear
and get
> a friend to put on the brakes just to see if the rears are working.
> It is probably a safe bet that you're braking problems are
> not with your rear(apart from your ebrake), but with your front.  If your
pedal
> is that soft, you may try bleeding the fronts again.  If the pedal feels
good
> but the pads still aren't grabbing when they should, it may be
contaminated
> pads or rotors( maybe the guys at the shop didn't clean the rotors before
> installing?)   As far as the Ebrake goes, did you try adjusting the
cables at
> the hand lever?  Are the cables good?  Since the ebrake is all
mechanical, it
> should not affect regular braking.  the ebrake mechanism in one of my
calipers
> is bad also.  Unfortunately, the only solution is replacement.
> 
> good luck
> 
> Greg F.

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