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Re: 2.0L big bore and specs needed.




> I got my 2.0L stipped and parted out. Now I need to know if anyone
> has some specs on boring it out to a 2.1L w/ umm 83.5 pistons and a
> 90something crank? 

Let me say that first of all, you're man after my own heart.  My view is
that I'll go through all the trouble of changing the engine, why not fix
it ONCE AND FOR ALL!  I'll be doing the same this you are, after my wife's
92 Passat 16v bites the dust.  Actually, I'll probably put my 1.8 16v in
it and sell it. :-)

As you mentioned, Autotech sells a kit for this.  Ask Mark at Adirondak, I
spoke very briefly with him about doing something with a 2.0L 16v, and he
said that he could fix me up when the time came.

> Also how much to shave the head down? 

I'm not sure that you should do this.  I'm not sure when makes the 2.0l 16v
10.5:1 and the 1.8 10:1, but much more then 10.5:1 could result in retarded
timing due to the knock sensor.  Why risk it?

> and should i bore the pistons out and go with bigger pistons? 

Yeah, probably.  I'm in the middle of researching this myself too.

> how much 
> does a 3-angle valve job usually run on a 16v.and can you actually do 
> one on a 16v? anyone had good recommendations on some high-lift 
> valve springs? 

As far as head work goes, this is (IMHO) the checklist for the 16v:

-Ported and polished head (StageII+) from Techtonics or Velocity, maybe EIP.
-Techtonics double hi-lift super duper valve springs
-Schrick 260 or Kent 258 cams (keep midrange/low end drivability which would
 be dimished with 266 cams)
-Techtonics adjustable cam gear (move your torque to the RPM range that suits
 *you* the best)
-Velocity ported 16v throttle body (I don't know anything about this, but once
 you've got the head work and improved bump-sticks, this can't hurt)
-Techtonics 16v header if you don't need to keep smog legal, Techtonics down-
 pipe otherwise. (after all that headwork, the 2.25 exhaust should add power)

Don't forget the full throttle enrichment module...

Put a 2.1L bottom end under this mess and I think that you'll be pushing 175hp.
Of course, you'll have spent, lets see, about $5,000 roughly.  Yup, seems worth
it to me!  No, really.

Add it up, ~$1,000 for a p&p head. ~$750 for the cams. ~$1,000 for the SS exhaust.
~$300 for the throttle body.  ~$750 for the 2.0l motor.  ~$1,000 for the 2.1L
kit. ~$250 for the machine shop work on the block.  +++ Hmmm, looks like it's gonna
be more then $5000.  Oh well.

> I'm looking also to drop as much weight as 
> possible..where are some good places to shave the block?

Lighten rotating mass (flywheel, rims/tires) or unsprung weight.

> 
> Noone in Houston is competant to work on my engine as they are all
> american muscleheads down here, but I got a guy in SanAntonio that I 
> think can do it as he's done a few before. I wana realistically get 
> 180+ hp outta the engine, including some hollow cams, and as high
> compression as I can realistically go, and am planning on using the 
> metal headgasket ...any ideas/numbers?  I looked at autotech's 
> kits..are their pistons really that good? better than JE?

Anyone know the difference between forged verses cast pistons?  How they'll
behave?  Oil consumption? Startup noise and longevity?

> 
> I really wanan get extrudehome to do a port/polish but they and most 
> shops dont wanna touch my 16v runners. if i cant find a euro intake 
> manifold soon I may have to just polish it myself. and maybe just 
> have the lower intake manifold and head ported.

You realize that the smaller diameter increases air velocity, and low-end
torque as a result.  The 50mm intake runners are $1000 roughly, maybe it's
worth it, but only with serious headwork.  I can think of other upgrades
that result in more 'bang' for a grand.

> 
> also anyone have blueprint information..where would I get blueprint 
> info..what the hell is blueprint info?! I'm trying to sould like I 
> know what I'm talking about when actually I have no clue.

Blueprint info, so called refering to the factory blueprint specs for a
machine, are the ideal specifications to which your engine should adhere
to.  This includes weights, lengths, balance, and clearances, etc.  Every
engine varies from these ideal specifications, some more significantly
then others.  Bringing you engine inline with these specs would almost
guarantee a smoother working machine, with horsepower and torque at or
above what the factory said it would do.

> 
> Ryan


Please keep us up on your project.  I have a personal interest, because I'll be
doing the same thing myself in a few years time.

==Brett
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