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Re: Re[2]: Stalling update (or, I feel soooo stupid!!)




Ahh bingo damn..yeah my mechanic said the compressor wasnt
comming on..guess the car thinks it should..when it isnt.

well hrm this leads me to ask another question.

While installing my stereo etc..it seems I 'broke' my ac-controller
in the center console...dont ask me how, but the L bracket that is
the ac/heat/defroster switch, the pivot came loose, i either lost the
screw or something...well anyway, if i reach my finger back and force
the L pivot point to rotate in its cup, then it does seem to move the
actual switch (located on passenger side) towards me as i move the L
arm to the left (AC) ..but the compressor doesnt seem to kick in. What
shouild I check first in debugging this? I really hope I'm not going
to have to rip the whole AC unit controller out of a junker and install it,
and I dont want to do something in testing and freeze up my compressor.

any help would be appreciated

Ryan
'87 16v Scirocco 
.-------------------------------------------------------------.
|Ryan Schuermann			       ryan@nwpros.com|
|Technical Analyst			      zqft01@amoco.com|
|PARANET, Inc.				schuermann@paranet.com|
|Pager:713-764-3467			http://www.paranet.com|			
|Work:713-626-4800		   http://www.nwpros.com/~ryan|
`-------------------------------------------------------------'

On 31 Jul 1995 coutinho.ka@pg.com wrote:

> Ryan,
> 
> 
> >I have found that simply forcing the fan on by putting the switch 
> >to 1 (AC) my engine never rises above 80% ..without kicking the fan 
> >on manually it usually creeps up to like 98% before stoppping it's climb.
> 
> I'm not too experienced with this and am still having problems with my 
> heating/cooling you_name_it.  However, I do know that I can "Fix" the heating 
> problem by turning my A/C on.  That's because my cooling fan switch is 
> defective.  There's a 3-way switch at the bottom of the radiator that controls 
> that fan speed.  Until I replace that switch I bypass it by running the A/C all 
> the time.  I could be wrong, this is per my mechanic.
> 
> >But..seems it affects my idle??? at idle it revs about 100 higher and 
> >when stopping to idle its verry slow to drop between 2k and 1k???
> 
> Assuming you do have A/C and your compressor works, the revs should not go any 
> higher.  The revs increase for a split second and then come down once the 
> compressor engages.  I think it's a rev compensation mechanism for the A/C.
> 
> >Ryan
> >'87 16v Scirocco
> 
> That's my 2c worth :)
> 
> Kevin.
> '86 8V Scirocco.
> --------------------
> coutinho.ka@pg.com
> kcoutinh@torfree.net
> --------------------
> 
> 
> 
> .-------------------------------------------------------------. 
> |Ryan Schuermann			       ryan@nwpros.com|
> |Technical Analyst			      zqft01@amoco.com| 
> |PARANET, Inc.				schuermann@paranet.com| 
> |Pager:713-764-3467			http://www.paranet.com|			 
> |Work:713-626-4800		   http://www.nwpros.com/~ryan|
> `-------------------------------------------------------------'
> 
> On Sun, 4 Aug 1996, Lisa & Rick wrote:
> 
> > > I haven't tried this... What are they symptoms of a car needing this? Mine 
> > > runs great, idles great, has plenty of power... It just dies after you
> > > accelerate hard and dump the clutch and close throttle fast after idling a 
> lot
> > > in hot weather.. Starts right back up but it's kind of embarassing... 
> > > (Especially when someone driving a GM sees this happen ;)
> >
> > Since this is my first FI car, I'm not a lot of help on this.....what 
> > I've read here is that it will improve hot and cold idling and also
> > would make sense that it should overall be more responsive.  Another 
> > thing I've been told is that it would be wise to have the internal FI 
> > o-rings replaced with new ones if it wasn't done over the last few
> > years (having just bought my car, I don't know....therefore I figure 
> > to do it).  There are rings with a small hole in them to better
> > atomize the fuel.  While this may not solve your problem, it seems
> > like good PM.  And from what I gather, it should cost less than $100. 
> > All I need to do is find somewhere in my area that has the equipment 
> > to do it.
> > >
> > >
> > > the fan is the first thing to look at because blockages and poor coolant 
> > > flow will cause the car to overheat all the time, esp at high speed..
> >
> > Mine only overheats at idle (or reduced speed, as in traffic stop &
> > go).  I also wondered about the water pump impeller (read in the FAQ) 
> > problems that sometimes occur on these.  Seems the sensor would be
> > the cheapest and easiest to try.
> > >
> > >
> > > I believe my sister (owner since new) got it replaced when it was newer... 
> > > How would one go about checking if something was replaced? I certainly
> > > can't tell by looking at the thing, it's covered with enough corrosion it 
> > > could be O.E.
> > > John K. Gates
> >
> > Simply call the dealer with your VIN handy.  They took the info and 
> > called me back to let me know I was entitled to the new pump and
> > filter.  This action also updates the VW database to show you as the 
> > current owner in case of future recalls (unlikely for cars of our
> > age).  Of course, if your sister was original owner, she should have 
> > forwarded any letters from VW to you.  Still, it's worth a phone
> > call.
> >
> > Sorry I'm not more help, once I get my Bentley manual and a few
> > weekends with my "rocket", I'll know more... hopefully the brain cells 
> > are still able to absorb :)
> >
> > Also, I posted this to usenet (if I already asked here, forgive me): 
> > The local VW dealer says he can order me a Bentley manual for
> > $49.95.   Is this a good price, or is there somewhere better to go? 
> >
> > Rick    hugacub@whidbey.net
> > '85 Scirocco 8V
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