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Battery Light question

Subject: Battery Light question
From: b-wiyeck at microsoft.com (William Yeckel (Lexmark International))
Date: Tue May 22 16:31:37 2007
In-reply-to: <001001c79cb7$a61a2cf0$c701a8c0@lapinportable>
References: <OFFD977D01.77CA382F-ON882572E3.00746B83-882572E3.00748ECF@xxxxxxx> <001001c79cb7$a61a2cf0$c701a8c0@lapinportable>
Helps a lot, thanks guys.

-Bill

-----Original Message-----
From: Mtl-Marc [mailto:marc_scirocco@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Tuesday, May 22, 2007 2:25 PM
To: 'Cory Langford'; William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: RE: Battery Light question

FYI, LEDs draw very little current, measured in milliamps, regardless LEDs
will have a 0.6V drop across them.

Hope this info helps.

Cheers.

Marc

> -----Message d'origine-----
> De : Cory Langford [mailto:Cory_Langford@xxxxxxx]
>
>
> I actually haven't measured the voltage for a perfect exciter
> wire attachment, but I would suspect the 11.5V should be
> enough.  You can get a full 12V (or a little more) if you by
> pass the light, but I don't think that would be necessary.
> The LED will draw some power and drop the voltage a little
> when it is on.
>
> Cory Langford
>
>
> "William Yeckel (Lexmark International)"
> <b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote on
> 22/05/2007 12:49:12 PM:
>
> > OK what I found before I made any changes was 12.35 volts at the
> > battery but only 11.32 where the exciter wire attaches to the alt.
> > So what I did was run a new wire from the alt. all the way back
> > through the firewall and to the back of the fuse panel.
> Now I have a
> > whopping 11.50 where the exciter wire connects to the alt.  Is this
> > good enough?  Or do I need to run more wire from the fuse panel
> > through the battery light and back to the battery?  Not
> even sure if
> > that's what happens going the other direction.
> >
> > Ps, OT, I am bummed that I will not be able to make it to
> Waterwagons
> > (big event in the PNW), cause that is the week the better
> half booked
> > our trip to Yellowstone.  She said I could skip the family
> trip to go
> > to Waterwagons, but that is probably a trap huh?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > -Bill
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
> [mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 12:00 PM
> > To: Neptuno; julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Cory Langford
> > Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: RE: Battery Light question
> >
> > Checks in the mail ;)
> >
> > ________________________________
> > From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
> > Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:47 AM
> > To: julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; William Yeckel (Lexmark
> International);
> > Cory Langford
> > Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > Subject: Re: Battery Light question
> >
> > ......To the Church of the free electron? Payment in Beer
> possible....
> >
> > julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> > You know Bill, that after the first six months, we will
> require you to
> > do a written exam on the subject of flawed wiring in 20 YO cars.
> > There is a $50.00 charge for the test and can be made payable to....
> >
> > >-----Original Message-----
> > >From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
> [mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> > >Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 02:02 PM
> > >To: 'Cory Langford'
> > >Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: RE: Battery Light question
> > >
> > >First off Cory thanks for all the info, this list and all the
> > helpful people on it totally rock! So to run a new wire can
> I just run
> > down to the nearest Schucks and pick up the length of wire
> I need? Or
> > is there a type of, or brand of wire I should be using?
> > >
> > >Thanks
> > >
> > >-Bill
> > >
> > >________________________________
> > >From: Cory Langford [mailto:Cory_Langford@xxxxxxx]
> > >Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:44 AM
> > >To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
> > >Cc: Neptuno; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: RE: Battery Light question
> > >
> > >
> > >I have found on many of the mk1's I have owned the actual exciter
> > wire (from the light through the harness to the alt) get old and
> > corroded in many spots along the way. This ends up increasing the
> > resistance of the wire and the whole system then starts to
> have weird
> issues.
> > >
> > >>From what I remember when I had this problem quite some time ago:
> > >
> > >What is supposed to happen, is when the car is started up the alt
> > has to be energized, to do this the +12V runs through the light and
> > then to the alt to supply the needed voltage to get it
> going. once the
> > alt is running, the +12 (or more) volts that is applied
> from the alt
> > end on the exciter wire leaves no ground and thus the light
> goes out.
> > >
> > >Unfortunately what actually ends up happening is that the wire
> > actually increases in resistance until the +12v that is
> supposed to be
> > at the alt is pulled down. (last one I had it was about
> 10v) (check by
> > disconnecting the wire from the alt, turn the car on but
> not running
> > and measure the voltage at the exciter wire - should be a
> strong +12).
> > What then happens is the alt does not actually energize
> correctly and
> > thus it needs to be rev'd to 2000+ rpm so that the diode
> bridge inside
> > can start supplying the needed voltage to the internals of the alt.
> > Then the light goes out (unless it is a really bad wire and
> the drop
> > is enough to have the light glow dimly like a ghost to haunt you...)
> > >
> > >Easiest solution is to run a new wire from the light to the alt.
> > Cheap and easy fix.
> > >
> > >I am sure some more technical people on the list will chime in with
> > a better explanation of the system :)
> > >
> > >Cory Langford
> > >
> > >
> > >"William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote on
> 16/05/2007 10:08:10
> AM:
> > >
> > >> I will try to dig into the exciter wire possibility. Had the alt
> > >> checked out by All Star electric, and they said it was good.
> > >>
> > >> Thanks
> > >>
> > >> -Bill
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
> > >> From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
> > >> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:24 AM
> > >> To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International);
> scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >> Subject: Re: Battery Light question
> > >>
> > >> Hello Bill,
> > >>
> > >> Exciter wire disconected and the alternator is not
> arming itself to
> > >> charge the battery. Try turning the car seeing if the
> light is on
> > >> then reving it up to 2000 rpm....Does the battery light
> go off? Yes?
> > >> then it maybe a brake on that wire or it maybe loose or corroded.
> > >> And like always check all grounds.... Wnat about brushes on the
> > >> regulator? Does anyone else know if that would do it?
> > >>
> > >> HTH,
> > >> Tony
> > >>
> > >> "William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote:
> > >> Just got the 1980 s-pack back on the road again after doing some
> > >> maintenance and trying to figure out an electrical issue which I
> > >> though I narrowed down to a bad battery that has been
> replaced. All
> > >> seems fine, car starts and runs fine. But there is a weird thing
> > >> going on with the battery light where it will be on for
> about the
> > >> first 10 minutes the car is running, then it goes off.
> > >>
> > >> Any ideas what might be going on here? Maybe some relay
> that does
> > >> not kick in until it gets warm enough?
> > >>
> > >> Thanks!
> > >>
> > >> -Bill
> > >> _______________________________________________
> > >> Scirocco-l mailing list
> > >> Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> ________________________________
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References:
- Battery Light question
  - From: Cory Langford
- Battery Light question
  - From: Mtl-Marc
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