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Battery Light question



I actually haven't measured the voltage for a perfect exciter wire
attachment, but I would suspect the 11.5V should be enough.  You can get a
full 12V (or a little more) if you by pass the light, but I don't think
that would be necessary.  The LED will draw some power and drop the voltage
a little when it is on.

Cory Langford


"William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" <b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote on
22/05/2007 12:49:12 PM:

> OK what I found before I made any changes was 12.35 volts at the
> battery but only 11.32 where the exciter wire attaches to the alt.
> So what I did was run a new wire from the alt. all the way back
> through the firewall and to the back of the fuse panel.  Now I have
> a whopping 11.50 where the exciter wire connects to the alt.  Is
> this good enough?  Or do I need to run more wire from the fuse panel
> through the battery light and back to the battery?  Not even sure if
> that's what happens going the other direction.
>
> Ps, OT, I am bummed that I will not be able to make it to
> Waterwagons (big event in the PNW), cause that is the week the
> better half booked our trip to Yellowstone.  She said I could skip
> the family trip to go to Waterwagons, but that is probably a trap huh?
>
> Thanks
>
> -Bill
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
[mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 12:00 PM
> To: Neptuno; julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; Cory Langford
> Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: RE: Battery Light question
>
> Checks in the mail ;)
>
> ________________________________
> From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 11:47 AM
> To: julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx; William Yeckel (Lexmark
> International); Cory Langford
> Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: Battery Light question
>
> ......To the Church of the free electron? Payment in Beer possible....
>
> julie@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
> You know Bill, that after the first six months, we will require you
> to do a written exam on the subject of flawed wiring in 20 YO cars.
> There is a $50.00 charge for the test and can be made payable to....
>
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
[mailto:b-wiyeck@xxxxxxxxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 02:02 PM
> >To: 'Cory Langford'
> >Cc: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: RE: Battery Light question
> >
> >First off Cory thanks for all the info, this list and all the
> helpful people on it totally rock! So to run a new wire can I just
> run down to the nearest Schucks and pick up the length of wire I
> need? Or is there a type of, or brand of wire I should be using?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >-Bill
> >
> >________________________________
> >From: Cory Langford [mailto:Cory_Langford@xxxxxxx]
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 10:44 AM
> >To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International)
> >Cc: Neptuno; scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: RE: Battery Light question
> >
> >
> >I have found on many of the mk1's I have owned the actual exciter
> wire (from the light through the harness to the alt) get old and
> corroded in many spots along the way. This ends up increasing the
> resistance of the wire and the whole system then starts to have weird
issues.
> >
> >>From what I remember when I had this problem quite some time ago:
> >
> >What is supposed to happen, is when the car is started up the alt
> has to be energized, to do this the +12V runs through the light and
> then to the alt to supply the needed voltage to get it going. once
> the alt is running, the +12 (or more) volts that is applied from the
> alt end on the exciter wire leaves no ground and thus the light goes out.
> >
> >Unfortunately what actually ends up happening is that the wire
> actually increases in resistance until the +12v that is supposed to
> be at the alt is pulled down. (last one I had it was about 10v)
> (check by disconnecting the wire from the alt, turn the car on but
> not running and measure the voltage at the exciter wire - should be
> a strong +12). What then happens is the alt does not actually
> energize correctly and thus it needs to be rev'd to 2000+ rpm so
> that the diode bridge inside can start supplying the needed voltage
> to the internals of the alt. Then the light goes out (unless it is a
> really bad wire and the drop is enough to have the light glow dimly
> like a ghost to haunt you...)
> >
> >Easiest solution is to run a new wire from the light to the alt.
> Cheap and easy fix.
> >
> >I am sure some more technical people on the list will chime in with
> a better explanation of the system :)
> >
> >Cory Langford
> >
> >
> >"William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote on 16/05/2007 10:08:10
AM:
> >
> >> I will try to dig into the exciter wire possibility. Had the alt
> >> checked out by All Star electric, and they said it was good.
> >>
> >> Thanks
> >>
> >> -Bill
> >>
> >> ________________________________
> >> From: Neptuno [mailto:neptunonc@xxxxxxxxx]
> >> Sent: Wednesday, May 16, 2007 9:24 AM
> >> To: William Yeckel (Lexmark International); scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> >> Subject: Re: Battery Light question
> >>
> >> Hello Bill,
> >>
> >> Exciter wire disconected and the alternator is not arming itself to
> >> charge the battery. Try turning the car seeing if the light is on
> >> then reving it up to 2000 rpm....Does the battery light go off? Yes?
> >> then it maybe a brake on that wire or it maybe loose or corroded.
> >> And like always check all grounds.... Wnat about brushes on the
> >> regulator? Does anyone else know if that would do it?
> >>
> >> HTH,
> >> Tony
> >>
> >> "William Yeckel (Lexmark International)" wrote:
> >> Just got the 1980 s-pack back on the road again after doing some
> >> maintenance and trying to figure out an electrical issue which I
> >> though I narrowed down to a bad battery that has been replaced. All
> >> seems fine, car starts and runs fine. But there is a weird thing
> >> going on with the battery light where it will be on for about the
> >> first 10 minutes the car is running, then it goes off.
> >>
> >> Any ideas what might be going on here? Maybe some relay that does
> >> not kick in until it gets warm enough?
> >>
> >> Thanks!
> >>
> >> -Bill
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
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