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Rear Shocks question



I had a dog once...

Sorry no relevance.  I just felt left out, nobody was yelling at ME.  lol



On 8/20/07, silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx <silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> The best tool to cut it off was a 4" cheap hand held grider with a 4" Harbor Freight cut off wheel.
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Gordy Stedman" <ydrogs@xxxxxxxxx>
> Just use common sense and keep all the sparks away from the gas tank and fuel system.  I usually make sure the wheel is spinning so the sparks shoot on the ground towards the rear of the car.  Might make for some hard locations to get at.  I think we had to remove the wheel to get access to the bolt.  Might be quicker work with an air grinder with a thin cut off wheel or electric grinder with a thin wheel, if you have one.  Never owned a dremel so do not know how well they do on cutting through steel.  Good luck!
>
>
> On 8/19/07, silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx <silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> You got my vote on that............dremel on the bottom of the old shock and an assortment of power tools to do the rest.  It's off now I just need the correct bolt.
>
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Gordy Stedman" < ydrogs@xxxxxxxxx>
>
> > Fuck patience, cut it off and move on. It's not like you are trying to save
> > the shock for later use, you are throwing it away. Save the PB for some
> > bread and jelly.
> >
> > On 8/19/07, LEF wrote:
> > >
> > > I've yet to see a frozen bolt that heat, time, patience, perseverance, and
> > > good penetrating oil (NOT WD-40) won't take care of.
> > >
> > > larry
> > > sandiego16v
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Peter"
> > > To: "'Cris Carpenter'" ;
> > > Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2007 8:20 AM
> > > Subject: RE: Rear Shocks question
>
> > &g t;
> > >
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From: Cris Carpenter
> > > >
> > > > We used to get the bolts to loosen up in the sleeves by heating them up
> > > > real
> > > > hot with an acetylene torch (you can only heat the exposed ends so it
> > > > takes
> > > > a while before the heat gets inside the sleeve), and then rattling them
> > > > out
> > > > with an air chisel. The idea is to get the rust holding the bolt to the
> > > > sleeve so hot that it disintegrates, but that technique requires those
> > > > tools. Another alternative is to bend the tangs of the lower supports
> > > out
> > > > to
> > > > allow some access and cutting the bolt off both sides with a metal
> > > cutting
> > > > sawzall.
> > > >
> > > > Cris
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Just a heads up...
> > > >
> > > > You have to be really careful torching gas charged shocks, because they
> > > > can
> > > > explode.
> > > > If they're Mk.1 factory shocks, then they're hydraulic shocks, so it
> > > > should
> > > > be okay.
> > > >
> > > > I usually try using a MAP gas torch, but I cut the round bottom shock
> > > > mount
> > > > off first to remove the shock, before I torch the rubber away, to expose
> > > > the
> > > > sleeve, so I don't have to worry about an explosion, and to help heat up
> > > > the
> > > > sleeve.
> > > > 3 out of 4 times, I usually end up having to cut the sleeve off anyway,
> > > > and
> > > > this is after getting them cherry red, and spraying WD-40, or water on
> > > it,
> > > > to help cool them off.
>
> & gt; > >
>
> > > > Having the bolt seize up in the sleeve, is really common around
> > > here(east
> > > > coast), and I always use anti-seize on the bolts, so it doesn't happen
> > > > again.
> > > >
> > > > Peter
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Message: 12
> > > > Date: Sun, 19 Aug 2007 02:15:57 +0000
> > > > From: silvius14@xxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > Subject: Rear Shocks question
> > > > To: scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > Message-ID:
> > > >
> > > > <
> > > 081920070215.2475.46C7A7DD000E49BE000009AB2206424613CBCE9C9A079004079C@comc
> > > > ast.net>
> > > >
> > > > Content-Type: text/plain
> > > >
> > > > O.K.....so I got me some KYB Gas-A-just shocks for the rear and started
> > > on
> > > > the Passenger side. I was amazed at how easy it was to replace.
> > > > I'd say it took me 30-40 minutes to replace. I know that's probably
> > > > slow.
> > > >
> > > > Now I tackle the Driver side............4 hrs later and I still haven't
> > > > gotten the old sachs shock off. The issue I'm having is that I was able
> > > > to
> > > > remove the nut, but the bolt won't budge..........any ideas????
> > > > I was thinking about using a dremel and cut off wheels and cut the the
> > > > bottom half of the cylinder with the bolt thru it and then cut the bolt
> > > in
> > > > half and replace.
> > > >
> > > > What have others done??
> > > >
> > > > Karl
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
>
> &g t; > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _______________________________________________
> > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > Scirocco-l@xxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Gordy
> > MK1 x 5
> > _______________________________________________
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>
>
>
> --
> Gordy
> MK1 x 5
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>


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