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Tune Up & PM



Another choice for oil filters are the Napa filters.  Very nice price for a 
good filter.  I've been running them
in my truck nearly since new and now at 186k the engine has no issues 
whatsoever.  Seems some of the
American trucks are definitely better than they used to be.

John

At 03:16 AM 7/20/06, Karl Krupke wrote:

>Hi Nate,
>    Looks like a good plan for the basic tune-up; don't forget 
> preventative maintenance.
>    I've always used:
>
>O/F- Fram PH2870A. Good as/better than Bosch or Mann, half the cost.
>A/F- Fram. Don't know the p/n.
>F/F- Bosch.
>Engine Oil- Castrol. I like 20w/50 weight, a bit less fuel mileage but a 
>bit more proctection than 10w/40. But it's really a judgement call; I'd 
>say heavier in a hot climate, lighter in cool. Also, I start with 1 quart 
>of Marvel Mystery Oil then top off with Castrol; the MMO is really good 
>for the later type heads with hydraulic lifters but has benefits for the 
>earlier engines as well.
>Trans Oil- Castrol 75w/90 (dino). But there are some good synthetics.
>All ignition- Bosch [plugs, cap & rotor, cables, points & condenser if you 
>have 'em].
>Coolant- Prestone, 50/50 water/ antifreeze mix.
>
>    The metal shield on the dist. cap is to reduce r/f interference... if 
> you haven't got it and your radio doesn't sound gawd-awful, don't worry 
> about it.
>
>PM Stuff:
>
>1) Don't forget to put a few drops of oil onto the felt pad in the center 
>of the dist. shaft under the rotor. This keeps the upper dist. shaft 
>lubed, and thus centered. If the bearing goes dry and wears it goes floppy 
>off-center, which will play hell with trying to set timing.
>2) Check battery connections for corrosion (greenish white pasty looking 
>stuff). You can clean off with water and baking soda, then spray on a 
>protective anti-corrosive.
>3) BRAKES! If you don't know how old your brake fluid is, it's time to 
>flush it out. Depends on climate, but I'd say not more than 3 years 
>between changes, 2 years in a very moist/humid environment. I like Castrol 
>LMA fluid, and since you're going to be there anyway replace all the brake 
>bleeder nipple caps, and check the flexible lines for cracks or other 
>signs of impending non- functionality... the 'bonus' excitement value of 
>blowing out a brake line while driving 10/10th's on a curvy mountain road 
>is largely offset by the cost of having to buy new underwear. And pants. 
>And getting the seat steam cleaned.
>4) General lube; door hinges, latch striker plates, lock barrels, throttle 
>butterflys, window channels, etc. Shift linkage even. Friction is the enemy.
>5) Don't forget to check lights, turn signals, BU lights, horn, etc. Good 
>to check every so often that all the stuff you think is working actually is.
>
>That's my spiel. Have fun.
>
>Karl


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