WAS: Warm running issue with CIS -> NOW: Engine bay electrical issue

[Cory_Langford at bcit.ca (Cory Langford)]

Well last night I confirmed that I have a bit of an electrical issue.

When I came home from work I figured I would try to isolate where the 
voltage drop is coming from.  So I grabbed the meter and started testing. 
I left the lights on, radio on, heater fan on low (figured lets find it 
with the worst case scenario).

Here is what I got:

At the Alt.  13.8V
At Switched +ve inside the car 12.2 V
At the rad fan switch 11.8V
At the +Ve  of the coil (terminal 15) 9.6V
At the -Ve of the coil  (terminal 1) 6.8V

I even tested the drop between the block and the car body.  0.9V

I would expect that the coil should be getting a nice clean 12V for 
optimum performance.  under 10V seems a little weak.

I figured rather than tracing the wires all the way back through the fuse 
panel to find the issue, I would simply run a new fused line from the alt. 
to a relay, from the relay to the +VE on the coil.  I would trigger the 
relay from the current wire supplying the coil. (9V should still trigger a 
relay).

The only issue I can think of is the "resistor" style wire to the coil.

The ignition is not a points system, it has a hall sensor ignition.  I 
noticed when I checked bently that the pre '81 rocs had a resistor 
(0.9ohms I think it was) in line with the coil supply, but this external 
resistor did not show up in the later model rocs (with the hall sensor 
ignition).

So anyone know if that resistor is still there and needed?

Thought I'd run the idea for the "quick fix" by the list before I 
implemented it.

TIA

Cory Langford
'86 Roc turbo, 
'78 Roc turbo - Daily driver project,
'65 Ghia Coupe
95 Eurovan, etc, etc... :)