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Bleeding coolant system



I have always backfilled the system by pulling the upper hose off of the
radiator and pouring coolant into it (and into the block) until it
overflows, then filled the system through the expansion tank.  Otherwise,
there won't be enough coolant in the block and around the thermostat to
allow it to open.  The engine can get very hot, very quickly when this
happens!

Once the thermostat does open, then level will drop down, so keep an eye on
it.  Run it for 5 minutes or so with the cap off.  The system will bleed
itself from there on.

Jim

------------------------------

Message: 9
Date: Wed, 1 Feb 2006 22:15:30 -0600
From: "David Utley" <fahrvergnugen@cox.net>
Subject: Re: Bleeding coolant system
To: "Edward Effinger" <Eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca>,
	<scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Message-ID: <00ed01c627af$4e5b3c80$6501a8c0@ok.cox.net>
Content-Type: text/plain;	charset="iso-8859-1"

----- Original Message -----
From: "Edward Effinger" <Eeffinger@conestogac.on.ca>
To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, February 01, 2006 9:07 AM
Subject: Bleeding coolant system


Greetings.
Put on the new water pump last night, put some antifreeze in the rad and
started the car.
No leaks, just waiting for the motor to warm up and then continue to top up
the rad.

The lower rad hose never got warm, so suspecting a sticky thermostat, put in
a new one.

Same thing!

The rad would heat up and start steaming but the lower hose was cold.

Put the cap on, ran it till warm and everything worked fine.

The old thermostat was a 92C, the new one is 180F.

Why did the system need pressure to open the thermostat?

Thanks
Ed