Shine rear swaybar dimension & metallurgical advice needed

[haygood at myway.com (Brian Haygood)]

I agree with L on two points.  1)  A center mount will have no affect unless you put a jackstand under your swaybar.  2) if you can make a bar from round stuff, do so.  The C-channel just isn't as rigid for the weight.  Of course the C-channel is beautifully simple, and might have a weight advantage because it doesn't have big steel blocks at the ends, so we might be wrong.  Easy enough to calculate the difference.



My advice is to make a round bar like the shine bar first.  If you decide you want it heavier or lighter, come back to the list and we'll spec another type of tubing.  It would also be possible to make a set of mounting blocks (squares with 1.5" holes in them) that you can bolt various bars into.  Then you could swap in any 1.5" bar of any wall thickness.  You would have to have someone cut some inserts to weld into the tubes so the bolt doesn't tear through.  Drop me a line if you want me to make some inserts like that.



Allyn, how much does a shine rear bar weigh?  If you don't want to take it off you could just compare the weight of that car with your weight tables and tell us what the difference is.  <ducking "friendly" fire from Al>



Brian









 --- On Tue 08/08, Brian Haygood < haygood@myway.com > wrote:

From: Brian Haygood [mailto: haygood@myway.com]

To: dswalterwi@gmail.com, rapieper@yahoo.com

     Cc: scirocco-l@scirocco.org, verboten@michiganvw.org

Date: Tue,  8 Aug 2006 11:59:16 -0400 (EDT)

Subject: Re: Shine rear swaybar dimension & metallurgical advice needed +	(ATTN: Ron P.



<br>Wow, you should really warn the southerners before you post pictures with that much rust :P  Remind me to rag on Ben for not painting the bar.<br><br><br><br>How did it get bent?  Was that a jack related incident or did it suffer some permanent deformation in use?  Has anyone bothered to check how far the bars we are concoccting can twist elastically?<br><br><br><br>Brian - not volunteering to check stress on the bars. :)<br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br><br> --- On Sun 08/06, Don Walter < dswalterwi@gmail.com > wrote:<br><br>From: Don Walter [mailto: dswalterwi@gmail.com]<br><br>To: rapieper@yahoo.com<br><br>     Cc: scirocco-l@scirocco.org, verboten@michiganvw.org<br><br>Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 12:53:15 -0500<br><br>Subject: Re: Shine rear swaybar dimension & metallurgical advice needed +	(ATTN: Ron P.<br><br><br><br>Here are pictures of the Ron and Ben's Rear Axle Bar.  Hope they are good as<br>I had to Jack my car way up to get them.  You may see some torsional 
effect<br>of the bar from being jack up from one side.  Hope this helps everyone.<br><br>http://scirocco.dyn.dhs.org/vw/list/Don_Walter/RearAxle-Shrine/<br><br><br>On 8/5/06, Ron Pieper <rapieper@yahoo.com> wrote:<br>><br>> 2.5" U channel, 5/8" depth, 5/16" thick.<br>><br>> Can't upload to my corner of Al's space...so here's what I had written:<br>><br>> -qty. (4) 3/8-16 bolts, 1" long, with nuts, washers, lockwashers, all SAE<br>> Grade 8 (forgive us for<br>> not using Metric-sized fasteners)<br>> -We drilled two 3/8" dia. holes in each end, 1" in from the end (therefore<br>> 39" apart), 0.75" in<br>> from the sides (therefore 1" apart, centered in the channel).<br>> -For protection, I like Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer (even though the<br>> metal was not rusty), then<br>> some Rustoleum Hammer Finish paint.  I chose gray.  You <br>go nuts.<br>> -The bar was positioned as shown on the leading edge of the trailing arm,<br>> centered fore/aft and<br>> side/side. It was clamped 
in place with C-clamps and the hole locations in<br>> the bar were<br>> transferred to the trailing arm.<br>> -The material in the trailing arm is not as nasty as we'd been led to<br>> believe.  You can go through<br>> with the 3/8" drill without pilot drilling; however pilot drilling will<br>> increase accuracy as the<br>> 3/8" drill may want to wander a bit, even if the location has been<br>> centerpunched or centerdrilled.<br>><br>> -We then bolted the rearmost  hole first, then the forwardmost, for each<br>> side.<br>> -Done.<br>><br>> The cool thing about this bar is that it takes no welding or other<br>> fabricating, just hacksawing<br>> and drilling.  Ben and I wanted to make sure that anyone could build one<br>> of these, and we've met<br>> that goal.  Also, differing rates of torsional stiffness can be acheived<br>> simply <br>by changing the<br>> spec of the bar...use a different size piece of channel.  We decided on<br>> the bolt pattern so that<br>> we could go to 
different sizes easily, and swap bars between our cars.<br>><br>> HTH<br>><br>> Ron<br>><br>> --- Allyn <amalventano1@tds.net> wrote:<br>><br>> > IIRC, it was either 2" or 2.5" 'u' channel.<br>> > Al<br>> ><br>> > > -----Original Message-----<br>> > > From: Mark F. [mailto:mk1mark@gmail.com]<br>> > > Sent: Friday, August 04, 2006 7:59 PM<br>> > > To: Allyn<br>> > > Cc: Rick Kellner; scirocco list<br>> > > Subject: Re: Shine rear swaybar dimension & metallurgical<br>> > > advice needed + (ATTN: Ron P.)<br>> > ><br>> > > On 8/4/06, Allyn <amalventano1@tds.net> wrote:<br>> > > > Ron used a 'different' piece of steel for that task.<br>> > > > I don't think its on rons site.  I dug around the files<br>> > > locally (his site is on this system), and came up nill.<br>> > ><br>> > ><br>> > > I found one of Ron's posts on the subject in the <br>archives,<br>> > > but the link to the pic no longer exists.  IIRC he used a<br>> > > piece of channel, right?  Ron, if you're around, got 
any<br>> > > pics/specs?  Did you ever get to directly compare it to a<br>> > > Shine bar on the track?<br>> > ><br>> > > Thanks!<br>> > ><br>> > > Mark.<br>> > > 75<br>> > > 82 - in search of stiff ass end<br>> > > 82 Caddy<br>> > > 93 Chevy/Kia 1/2 ton<br>> ><br>> ><br>> > _______________________________________________<br>> > Scirocco-l mailing list<br>> > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>> > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>> ><br>><br>><br>><br>><br>> __________________________________________________<br>> Do You Yahoo!?<br>> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around<br>> http://mail.yahoo.com<br>><br>> _______________________________________________<br>> Scirocco-l mailing list<br>> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>><br><br><br><br>-- <br>Don Walter - <br>Waukesha, WI<br>1986 8V Black Scirocco (Daily Driver)<br>1984 8V Audi 4000s (RIP 2/14/2006)<br>1986 2.0L 16V TEC 2 Black Scirocco (see 
progress at<br>http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/708939)<br>1986 2L 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (Ben's Car)<br>1988 1.8 16V Toronado Red Scirocco (sold on 3/29/04)<br>1984 1.8 8V Pewter Scirocco (sold years ago)<br>1971 Karman Ghia (sold)<br>1969 Karman Ghia (sold)<br>1969 Beetle (sold)<br>_______________________________________________<br>Scirocco-l mailing list<br>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>No banners. No pop-ups. No kidding.<br>Make My Way  your home on the Web - http://www.myway.com<br><br><br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Scirocco-l mailing list<br>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>

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