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ARRRGGGGHHHHxilliary Air valve



Errr, makes no sense.  You said you replaced with one that closes when 12VDC
applied and you checked for both ground and 12VDC with the ignition on?
That's all you need....

Assuming there are no leaks anywhere, the idle should drop dramatically if
you pinch the hose between the AAV and the intake when cold.  A little
change is OK when warm, but the idle should more or less stay the same.
That's pretty much all there is to it....

....I think.
Jim

>-----Original Message-----
>From: scirocco-l-bounces+sciroccos=earthlink.net@scirocco.org
>[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces+sciroccos=earthlink.net@scirocco.org]On
>Behalf Of C Boyko
>Sent: Thursday, September 15, 2005 7:29 PM
>To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Auxilliary Air valve ARRRGGGGHHHH
>
>
>OKay, so 8Vs piss me off, for the record.
>
>Just wanting to know if I have miossed anything.
>
>Problem: My auxilliary air valve will not close
>
>What I have done so far:
>New wiring to alternator which was not putting out squat (It's fine now)
>New fuel pump relay
>New wires/plugs to AAV and WUR (on same connector under the dash)
>Connector inspected, looks minty fresh (It's just flat metal anyway)
>New dedicated grounds for both devices direct to negative battery terminal
>New (fused) wire from battery positive direct to terminal 30 of FPRelay
>(eliminated bypass)
>New red and yellow wire from FPR to connector to WUR and AAV
>AAV replaced with one that closes visually when hooked up to 12V
>Tested 13.2 V at plug for AAV (car running)
>
>So, one thing I DIDN't do is check the valve when it was off by blowing
>through it. Squeezing the hose into it changes the idle when hot or cold,
>it must be closing some, but not all the way. I'm a bit weary of it by now,
>anything else I should be doing/checking before I yank the fucker off and
>throw it into Lake Erie? I've pretty well covered the whole harness to it,
>right?
>
>Thanks,
>Cathy
>
>