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Limited Edition 8v Supercharger Kits Available



 > +Timeframe?  When would they need to be ordered?  When would they be
 > built?  etc.
 
 That would be best asked directly to Peter. But I would figure that they should be ordered "soon". Maybe within the next 3-5 weeks? I'm sure that, if you were serious, he'd work with you. As for delivery, that would be another question for him. Probably a month or two.
 
 One thing to note is that Peter owns an engineering business as his full time job. I don't know how old he is, but he's definitely not some irresponsible kid. Heck...he INSISTED that he send me a replacement for a complex machined part that didn't *quite* fit my car, but that I could have modified myself just fine. I've been screwed and almost-screwed by several people on multi-thousand-dollar orders in the process of building this car. If you wanted to duplicate my cylinder head, for example, I can't help you. Peter isn't one of them, and that's why I posted this for him.
 
 > +Okay so I understand the bit about piping and engine management are
 > required, but what else (at minimum) would be either required or at
 > least a very good idea for this thing?
 
 I've already replied to another email with my thoughts on a crossmember brace...
 
 When you say "more fuel", I'm guessing you mean from the pump. if you switch to EFI (Megasquirt, Digifant 1, etc) the stock CIS pump will deliver far more fuel than you can likely use. CIS is a really high-pressure system, so the pump is unusually heavy duty. Most everything else out there runs in the neighborhood of 3-3.5 bar fuel pressure. I'm running huge 440cc injectors out of a Ford Lightning at 3.0bar, and have plenty of room left before I run out of fuel. The pumps we already have in our cars are sold as upgrades to twin-turbo Supra owners. It'll be fine for you.
 
 As for the oil system, I have a good sized external oil cooler. That's probably a good idea, especially if you run higher boost levels. No other changes necessary.
 
 Drivetrain: "well, adding a Quaife would be nice". :P
 
 But seriously, that's about all I did. If you stick to an 020 transmission and axles, and you make over 160whp, you can probably plan on it breaking every few years instead of lasting another decade. Of course it will wear things out faster. Bottome line: You do have to "not be stupid", but you don't have to baby it. With all my autocrossing, I stripped 2nd gear once getting on the gas coming out of a corner. The inside wheels hit some big washboards in the pavement and the wheel started hopping badly. I didn't get out of the gas, and it ripped apart 2nd gear. I should have been a little more careful. But these were big washboards...I regularly autocross on rough pavement and don't worry about it.
 
 My first CV joint just wore out this year. Didn't break...just started clicking. But axles are so easy to swap. I run 100mm 16v axles...remans from NAPA.
 
 Now, if you go drag racing, you're 100% on your own. Just about everyone I know who whines about breaking stuff has been drag racing.
 
 I run a 190mm 4-puck sintered metal clutch with a spring center on a stock 16v pressure plate. I think it is overkill, but with the spring center it is *reasonably* drivable. An upgraded clutch is probably a good idea as you start to run higher boost, but I wouldn't bother until you wear out the one you have. My clutch wore through a pressure plate this year...the clutch still had a lot of life on it. I replaced them both just to avoid future hassle. Clutches, along with anything in the drivetrain, will wear out in direct proportion to how hard you are on them (see drag racing comment above).
 
 As for engine prep, it depends entirely on your goals. If you want to run low boost, you can probably bolt it on to any healthy stock engine. An ABA head gasket on a low-compression GTI engine (they're 8.5:1, right? Anyway, not the 10:1) would probably be a smart idea if you want to run higher boost. To really take advantage of the supercharger and get up toward 200whp, you'll want a ported head/manifold, a cam, etc. Forged pistons like I have are nice and give you additional room for error...but it is really fuel tuning problems that kill pistons, not power or boost.
 
 No intake manifold or intercooler included in the kit. You can use your stock intake manifold just fine. Your TB goes on the supercharger, and I use a TB adapter part (without the TB) from a Corrado G60 to go from 2.25" round boost tubes to the manifold. Take a look at the pics of my car. You could run without an intercooler at very low boost levels, but you're definitely better off with an IC. Air/water is easier to package, but will probably cost more. Air/air intercoolers can be challenging to fit on an A1, but it can definitely be done.
 
 You'll need to ask Peter about CIS stuff. I have no idea! Mechanical fuel injection is hocus-pocus voodoo majik to me. :)
 
 Peter can get any pulley you want, from a mild pulley for non-intercooled setups to pulleys that exceed the charger's rated redline. You'll want to discuss your plans with him and he'll help you pick a pulley. How much boost you produce is entirely dependent on your engine and how efficiently it consumes air. For example, I'm only running 11psi. My head/manifold setup is pretty extreme and outflows most ported 16v heads. But my pully (57mm) on a stock 8v would probably produce more like 18psi.
 
 As you've probably gathered, this isn't a simple "bolt-on" kit. You have to have a plan, and you have to know what you're doing or at least be willing to learn and proceed slowly. There's lots of people willing to help you learn. I learned most ofI know from Peter and others like him on the Vortex. The rest I learned from books like the one from Corky Bell. Like any "custom" setup, it will only work well if you are willing to put the time in to make sure you're doing things right.
 
 Neal