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Acid Dipping Engines



Thanks for the input!  What I'm thinking of is basically setting up a super parts cleaner.  My Dad has hundreds if not thousands of small parts he needs to clean, like a couple hundred rusted carburetors.  I'm considering setting up something that will just barely accomodate a VW block since I'm going to the trouble.  I have a block and head that will definately have to be tanked, plus a trans case or two to clean.  Cleaning the last trans in paint thinner with elbow grease was not particularly fun.  I'd also consider setting up an old oil pump to slowly circulate and maybe filter the stuff, and then maybe I'll see whether heat would be helpful.  



BH



 --- On Sat 06/11, Spewey < spewey@comcast.net > wrote:

From: Spewey [mailto: spewey@comcast.net]

To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org

Date: Sat, 11 Jun 2005 16:40:44 -0500

Subject: Re: Acid Dipping Engines



But seriously, folks...<br><br>naval jelly is an acidic jelly because painting/wiping (without dipping) <br>syrupy acid onto an irregular surface would create a lot of hazardous <br>droplets.<br><br>Acid eats the rust like this:<br><br>Fe2O3 + Fe + 6HCl ---> 3FeCl2 + 3H2O<br><br>See that second Fe?  That's good metal!  One of the links I found was of <br>a Camaro race series where a protest was lodged against a team that acid <br>dipped the roof (to lose weight) and vinyl-covered it to disguise the <br>pitting.  Paging Danica Patrick....<br><br>Base (lye) doesn't eat good metal but the hot-tanking process probably <br>involves Zinc.  The rest is done by pure soapyness:<br><br>"Since Zinc likes to bond to things better than Iron (Fe) the Zn+ <br>molecule attacks the rust and takes the Iron molecule off and bonds <br>itself to the Oxygen molecules that made up the rust. BUT in doing so it <br>winds up floating in the solution. The result, the rust gets stripped <br>off the Iron 
part, the Iron itself is untouched. This type of process <br>has absolutely no bad effects to the original part just to the rust on <br>the part."<br>http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/rust.htm<br><br>Dude who uses lye (+Zn) at home to clean old guns, etc.:<br>http://www.civilwaroutpost.com/Ironrelics.htm<br><br>Dude who says use vinegar (an acid) first for rust but no Zn:<br>http://www.griswoldandwagner.com/cleaning/cleaning.html<br><br>POR-15 is a diisocyanate.  Everybody's got their own view:<br><br>"Isocyanates, together with related compounds such as cyanogens and <br>cyanamides, are chemicals of the cyanide and nitril class, which contain <br>the CN group.... Harming the human body, Isocyanates can essentially <br>damage the plasma and internal cell membranes."<br>http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/zerorust/zerorust.htm#isocyanates<br><br>Picklex doesn't have an msds available (they must in order to ship it) <br>but it says it's an ortho-ester.  Hmmm, 
dunno.<br><br>_______________________________________________<br>Scirocco-l mailing list<br>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org<br>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l<br>

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