2.0l

[johncworden at verizon.net (John C. Worden)]

I will second Rick's recommendation.  He told me about it when I
have one snap and a few others refuse to come out.  The Sears tool
worked great.

John


At 07:55 AM 6/8/05, RICHARD F KELLNER wrote:

>Also, a stud removal tool, available at Sears, works well.
>Rick.
>
>Julie Macfarlane <juliemac57@hotmail.com> wrote:
>Soak the stud in PB blaster or Kroil then apply heat. LOTS to just the stud.
>The head causes the bolt to expand faster than the head (alum) then really
>clamp down with a good set of vice grips. That should do the job.
>
>If you use a hoist remember to fit the DS first, the 5th gear housing will
>be a pain other wise (experienced that my self :)
>
>Removing the head will cost about $100.00 just in bolts and gaskets. Leave
>it on!
>
>Julie Macfarlane
>"Its not just a car! Its an adventure!"
>1981 MKI 2L 16v w 2Y
>Amsterdam NY
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Chad Eatock"
> >To: "Jeff Toomasson"
> >CC: Sciroccolist
> >Subject: Re: 2.0l
> >Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2005 01:18:24 -0400
> >
> >The fractured stud is the one off the exhaust manifold...it snapped about
> >1/4 inch above the block I tried the grips bit just wouldn't go...I'll soak
> >it down for sure.....I will most likely just put this sucker in I
> >guess...I'm just tripped out that it is going to be a different car after
> >this!!
> >Machine shop for broken studs sounds good I guess....
> > does anybody know where I can get an engine hoist and stand for cheap
> >here in Canada?
> >I can't move my motor around without asking for help and people are
> >annoyed!
> >lol
> >Thanks
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Jeff Toomasson"
> >To: "Chad Eatock"
> >Cc: "Sciroccolist"
> >Sent: Wednesday, June 08, 2005 1:03 AM
> >Subject: Re: 2.0l
> >
> >
> > > Ease up, grass-hoppah. You need to better articulate what you're trying
> > > to portray here. I guarantee you'll get a lot better response if you
> > > take the time to explain your questions in more detail.
> > >
> > > 1) How deep is the fracture of the stud? Another question is WHICH ONE
> > > is it? Pix help considerably. You're talking about head-related stuff
> > > then jumped to a stripped stud in the block? Again, more details....
> > >
> > > Can you get on it w/ a vise-grip, or is it beneath the surface?
> > > Otherwise, you'd most likely have to drill out the old stud and re-tap
> > > the hole (MUCH better, imho, to pay a machine shop for this activity
> > > especially if the engine's out.) If you can get on it, hose it down w/
> > > PB Blaster and let it sit for 24 hours. Should do the trick.
> > >
> > > 2) taking the head off just to clean "deposits" is not worth the time,
> > > effort, $$....now, if you're taking the head off to replace/recondition
> > > something specific, then it becomes a question of your available time
> > > and money because if the engine was supposedly fine before, why would
> > > you take it apart? (unless you're anal like many of us (but being anal
> > > costs $$$ :)
> > >
> > > Hope that helps - Jeff
> > >
> > > Chad Eatock wrote:
> > >
> > > >Ok...got the 2.0l pretty much stripped except for the pulleys for the
> >timing belt, water pump etc...the head on this engine is considerably newer
> >looking than the block and seems to be rebuilt maybe? the intake manifold
> >is off, the exhaust manifold is off but there are a few studs still in the
> >block and one snapped in the block too....(what do I have to do for that?
> >drill, tap?)
> > > >Looking into the intake of the head you can see black deposits and
> >such...is this normal? should I take the head and everything off? there is
> >no leaking from the valve cover and the engine was tested ok...is it just a
> >matter of switching over everything from the 1.8l?
> > > >I dunno...many more redundant questions are inevitable from me as I am
> >a
> >rookie here!! lol
> > > >Chadster16v
> > > >_______________________________________________
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> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> >
> >
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