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Coolant Temp/Syn Oil



I agree with David.  Engines like to run hot.  The reason that they don't is that they can't, when
using conventional coolants.  The reason that folks put lower temp thermostats and fan switches in
is to give them additional headroom - basically additional capacity - in their cooling systems. 
Lower temp devices are installed so the engine can *survive* when it's equipped with components
that allow higher power generation, they're *not* to provide extra power.

At least that's my input.

Ron

--- David Utley <fahrvegnugen@cox.net> wrote:

> *shrug*  I dunno then.  I have done this twice over the years, and the car
> did not feel as responsive, and I lost about 1 mpg.  Not a big change, but I
> couldn't help but feel that I went backwards with the improvements...
> 
> With -higher- temps, you increase the ability of an engine harness all the
> power from the gas it burns as it will then burn that much more violently...
> Look here...
> 
> http://www.evanscooling.com/html/tech1.htm
> 
> The information on their web page is nebulous, but there is good info to be
> found...
> 
> >From the site--Evans NPG Coolant and related components are designed with
> the ability to reduce hot spots while raising the coolant boiling point and
> decreasing the volume of vapor generated when compared to typical ethylene
> glycol / water (EGW) mixtures.  Race car testing has shown that even if
> forced to operate at up to 300? F, detonation control and previously
> forbidden combustion pressures and temperatures are no longer the danger
> they were to thermal engine efficiency and durability.
> 
> 
> This obviously does not reiterate my idea, but it would stand to reason if
> what they say is true...
> 
> David
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces+fahrvegnugen=cox.net@scirocco.org
> [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces+fahrvegnugen=cox.net@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of
> Peter
> Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2005 12:47 AM
> To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> Subject: RE: Coolant Temp/Syn Oil
> 
> From: David Utley [mailto:fahrvegnugen@cox.net]
> IMHO, I would rather know the cause as opposed to fixing something that was
> not, or should not be broken.  A low-temp fan switch (in my experience)
> kills economy and power...
> David
> 
> LOL, I never heard that one before...
> 
> The cause, is most likely a corroded terminal (as mentioned in my 1st reply)
> on the rad fan switch, and the connector, or just a bad switch.
> 
> When I first bought my '88 16V, the temp gauge needle would be just over the
> LED, when driven hard, and the engine would slightly ping.
> I installed a low temp fan switch, which stopped the pinging, and the needle
> never went past the LED.
> 
> ...That Wednesday engine and low temp fan switch is now in my '79 Scirocco,
> and there is no loss in power, or gas mileage.
> 
> >From a Saab website, http://www.quasimotors.com/coolfan.htm:
> The following tells how to check the cooling fan system, both for basic
> operation and detailed troubleshooting, in case the operational check shows
> that one of the fan speeds isn't working.  If the operational check shows
> that both fan speeds are working, the best thing to do (and the one thing
> that fixes most people's cooling systems) is to buy and install the lower
> temperature fan switch.  Replacing the thermostat is also a good idea.  A
> lower temperature thermostat is available but I don't recommend it except in
> extremely hot environments because, coupled with the lower temp switch, the
> engine will actually run too cool.
> 
> http://www.quasimotors.com/cooling_fan_ops_check.htm :
> Run the engine at idle and make sure the fan comes on before the temperature
> gauge goes past the halfway point (this assumes that you have the lower
> temperature fan switch, which you should have).
> 
> 
> Check your terminals Dan, I bet at least one terminal is corroded.
> 
> Btw, the rad fan switch usually only closes at idle, or stop and go traffic.
> 
> Peter
> http://thescirocco.com/
> 
> Please! Include the previous text in your reply...
> 
> 
> >
> > From: "Peter" <peter@thescirocco.com>
> > Date: 2005/07/08 Fri PM 07:09:31 EDT
> > To: "'daniel savatteri'" <yoscirocco@hotmail.com>
> > CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > Subject: RE: Coolant Temp/Syn Oil
> >
> > Hey Dan,
> >
> > Try a low temp fan switch, and/or check the terminals for corrosion.
> > The rad fan wiring is right below the battery, and prone to corrosion.
> >
> >
> > Peter
> > http://thescirocco.com/
> >
> > Please! Include the previous text in your reply...
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: scirocco-l-bounces+peter=thescirocco.com@scirocco.org
> > [mailto:scirocco-l-bounces+peter=thescirocco.com@scirocco.org] On
> > Behalf Of daniel savatteri
> > Sent: Friday, July 08, 2005 12:38 PM
> > To: Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > Subject: Coolant Temp/Syn Oil
> >
> > So I started using Moble 1 15w50 in my 16v.  My highway cruising
> > coolant temp has risen to above the led on the gauge (needle just clears
> the LED).
> > Goes back to normal when sitting still. The strangest thing was that
> > when I put the A/C on the coolant temp drops to normal (needle
> > directly on the LED) when cruising. This is the same viscosity oil I
> > use in the Castrol GTX which I've never had a problem with for years.
> > I know synthetic oil is slightly thinner than reg oil but that
> > shouldn't be the culprit. Coolant level is correct and is relatively
> > new, I do need a new battery and am suffering long cold starts because
> > of the battery.  I'm stuck, need advice from the almighty list. Please
> Help!
> >
> > Dan Savatteri
> > Black MK2 16v
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE!
> 
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> >
> >
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> >
> >
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> >
> 
> '83 GTI, Daily Driver...
> '87 16V, parts car
> '82 pickup, 2.0 16V, collecting dust...
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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> 
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