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rust treatment?



Wow.  thanks a lot.  I'm not doing this for a while still, but this message 
is definitely going directly into my archives.

mmmmm - lots of tools to buy.  tooools.  mmmm. </homer>

-Grant-
Annapolis, MD/Louisville, KY
1980 in storage :(



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <SequoiaGLX@twcny.rr.com>
To: "GTG" <NavySEAL2B@insightbb.com>
Cc: "Scirocco list" <Scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: rust treatment?


> Napa has 25' rolls of 3/16" brake line and should
> have the metric line nuts.  I cut the line about the
> right length, slide the nut over the end, flare it
> per the instructions in the flaring tool set (reason
> I mentioned the OTC/Stinger one is that I've found
> it to be a great quality tool for very cheap, never
> made a bad flare with it if it's used right), screw
> the newly flared end into the fitting on one end,
> bend and fit the line along the way to the other end
> and cut it off at the right length.  Slide another
> nut over this end and flare it.  Screw it together.
>
> Notes:
>
> The VW line is teflon coated or something, if you
> can get a roll of it, it's probably better against
> corrosion but more expensive.  The Napa line is
> galvanized and has held up just fine for me on my
> domestic cars.
>
> You also need a line cutting tool.  Available also
> at Napa, etc.
>
> DO NOT forget to put the line nut on before you
> flare.  You'll curse a lot when you realize you have
> to cut your nicely made flare off, slide a nut on
> and do the flare all over again.
>
> Make some practice flares first before you do the
> real thing.  Do it a couple of times and you'll
> quickly get comfortable with it.
>
> Note about the tool.  When they say to tighten down
> the end of the flaring bar that the line is closest
> to first, they mean it.  It's the only way to get a
> good grip on the line with a reasonable amount of
> pressure.  Tighten that end down first then the
> other end will have a leverage advantage for
> actually clamping down on the line to hold it.
>
> You absolutely positively need quality line
> wrenches.  These are almost like box end wrenches
> except the have a small cutout at the tip so you can
> slip them over the line to get to the line nut.
> They grip on 5 corners.  Open end wrenches are way
> more likely to round off one of the soft nuts.
>
> You may or may not be able to get the old line out
> of the rubber hoses/calipers/wheel cylinders.  Your
> best bet for this is to soak it down with PB blaster
> and go at it with a good quality line wrench.  I
> have used a little bit of heat too but then replaced
> everything that was close by in the brake system
> because I was afraid that the rubber seals/parts
> were damaged.
>
> You need to bend the line with a bending tool, it
> keeps the line from flattening when you bend it.
>
> Obviously you have to bleed the system afterwards.
> You can bleed by foot (don't push the pedal down too
> far in the bore, it's a good way to ruin an older
> master cylinder), vacuum or pressure bleeder.  I
> prefer pressure bleeder by far, the Motive bleeder
> available from germanautoparts.com
> (motiveproducts.com) is only about $50.oo and worth
> its weight in gold, IMO.  It makes a 15 minute job
> of it.
>
> Let me know if you need more information.
>
> Honest, it's not really as intimidating as it seems.
>
> John K. Gates
> --
> Rome, NY
> '97 Jetta GLX - daily driver
> '85 Scirocco Flash Silver, waiting for my new
> house/shop for a complete
> teardown/buildup sometime soon...
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: GTG <NavySEAL2B@insightbb.com>
> Date: Saturday, September 4, 2004 1:13 pm
> Subject: Re: rust treatment?
>
>> > Best thing to do is to go to Napa, buy a brake
> line flaring kit
>> from
>> > OTC/Stinger for about $30 (ISO
>> > Metric) and a basic line bending mandrel/tool.
> Run a new line.
>>
>> Could you expand more on this process or direct me
> somewhere i can
>> read up
>> on it?
>> I also have rusted brake lines that i hit with a
> wire brush - it
>> ate clear
>> thru them.  I cut it and pinched it off so as of
> now i'm without
>> rear brakes
>> at all, but replacing all those lines is my first
> priority for
>> when i pull
>> the car out of storage this winter.  I'm actually
> planning to
>> replace the
>> whole system from the MC to the rotors, but the
> extent of the
>> project
>> depends on $$$.
>>
>> As for rust treatment - I resorted to using a
> sandblaster on my
>> car (i keep
>> meaning to do a full write up, maybe this coming
> week) but also
>> had a lot of
>> success with a wire brush and a paint stripper
> pad.  If you go to
>> home depot
>> or autozone they have these big round hard spongey
> looking things
>> that go
>> into a drill that will do a pretty good job of
> getting loose rust
>> and paint
>> and whatever else is there out, then hit it with
> POR-15.  I went a
>> step
>> further and got out ALL the rust before painting,
> but i hear you
>> can even
>> use that stuff right over pretty bad rust.  If you
> blast a hole
>> clear thru
>> the metal somewhere, there are patch kits that
> work well with
>> POR15.  Not
>> sure if they're made by the same company,
> necessarily, but
>> porstore.com i
>> think it is sells them in kits with it.
>>
>> -Grant-
>> Annapolis, MD/Louisville, KY
>> 1980 in storage :(
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- 
>> From: <SequoiaGLX@twcny.rr.com>
>> To: "Allyn" <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
>> Cc: "scirocco list" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 12:48 PM
>> Subject: Re: rust treatment?
>>
>>
>> > I'd be scared to death of a brake line like that.
>> > Trust me, I've had them fail.  Granted, it was on a
>> > 5000 pound pickup truck....
>> >
>> > Best thing to do is to go to Napa, buy a brake line
>> > flaring kit from OTC/Stinger for about $30 (ISO
>> > Metric) and a basic line bending mandrel/tool.  Run
>> > a new line.  The line nuts and line should be less
>> > than $10.oo.
>> >
>> > Don't mess with rusty brake lines.  It's
> freaking scary.
>> >
>> > John K. Gates
>> > --
>> > Rome, NY
>> > '97 Jetta GLX - daily driver
>> > '85 Scirocco Flash Silver, waiting for my new
>> > house/shop for a complete
>> > teardown/buildup sometime soon...
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: Allyn <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
>> > Date: Saturday, September 4, 2004 9:35 am
>> > Subject: rust treatment?
>> >
>> >> ok, i know POR15 is the stuff to get if you want
>> > to paint to seal
>> >> in a
>> >> surface that has started rusting. the question is,
>> > what is the
>> >> good stuff
>> >> that i can use to treat a surface that is _really_
>> > bad. you know,
>> >> when it
>> >> looks like its an onion peel (feels like it too).
>> > some surfaces
>> >> under the
>> >> passat i'm afraid to even touch (the major one is
>> > a brake line
>> >> that runs
>> >> across the rear, right by that fuel assembly
>> > thing). normally i
>> >> would just
>> >> wire brush something like this to get the loose
>> > stuff off, but i
>> >> dont want
>> >> to start leaks if i can help it...
>> >>
>> >> thx
>> >> Al
>> >>
>> >>
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