[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]
rust treatment?
Napa has 25' rolls of 3/16" brake line and should
have the metric line nuts. I cut the line about the
right length, slide the nut over the end, flare it
per the instructions in the flaring tool set (reason
I mentioned the OTC/Stinger one is that I've found
it to be a great quality tool for very cheap, never
made a bad flare with it if it's used right), screw
the newly flared end into the fitting on one end,
bend and fit the line along the way to the other end
and cut it off at the right length. Slide another
nut over this end and flare it. Screw it together.
Notes:
The VW line is teflon coated or something, if you
can get a roll of it, it's probably better against
corrosion but more expensive. The Napa line is
galvanized and has held up just fine for me on my
domestic cars.
You also need a line cutting tool. Available also
at Napa, etc.
DO NOT forget to put the line nut on before you
flare. You'll curse a lot when you realize you have
to cut your nicely made flare off, slide a nut on
and do the flare all over again.
Make some practice flares first before you do the
real thing. Do it a couple of times and you'll
quickly get comfortable with it.
Note about the tool. When they say to tighten down
the end of the flaring bar that the line is closest
to first, they mean it. It's the only way to get a
good grip on the line with a reasonable amount of
pressure. Tighten that end down first then the
other end will have a leverage advantage for
actually clamping down on the line to hold it.
You absolutely positively need quality line
wrenches. These are almost like box end wrenches
except the have a small cutout at the tip so you can
slip them over the line to get to the line nut.
They grip on 5 corners. Open end wrenches are way
more likely to round off one of the soft nuts.
You may or may not be able to get the old line out
of the rubber hoses/calipers/wheel cylinders. Your
best bet for this is to soak it down with PB blaster
and go at it with a good quality line wrench. I
have used a little bit of heat too but then replaced
everything that was close by in the brake system
because I was afraid that the rubber seals/parts
were damaged.
You need to bend the line with a bending tool, it
keeps the line from flattening when you bend it.
Obviously you have to bleed the system afterwards.
You can bleed by foot (don't push the pedal down too
far in the bore, it's a good way to ruin an older
master cylinder), vacuum or pressure bleeder. I
prefer pressure bleeder by far, the Motive bleeder
available from germanautoparts.com
(motiveproducts.com) is only about $50.oo and worth
its weight in gold, IMO. It makes a 15 minute job
of it.
Let me know if you need more information.
Honest, it's not really as intimidating as it seems.
John K. Gates
--
Rome, NY
'97 Jetta GLX - daily driver
'85 Scirocco Flash Silver, waiting for my new
house/shop for a complete
teardown/buildup sometime soon...
----- Original Message -----
From: GTG <NavySEAL2B@insightbb.com>
Date: Saturday, September 4, 2004 1:13 pm
Subject: Re: rust treatment?
> > Best thing to do is to go to Napa, buy a brake
line flaring kit
> from
> > OTC/Stinger for about $30 (ISO
> > Metric) and a basic line bending mandrel/tool.
Run a new line.
>
> Could you expand more on this process or direct me
somewhere i can
> read up
> on it?
> I also have rusted brake lines that i hit with a
wire brush - it
> ate clear
> thru them. I cut it and pinched it off so as of
now i'm without
> rear brakes
> at all, but replacing all those lines is my first
priority for
> when i pull
> the car out of storage this winter. I'm actually
planning to
> replace the
> whole system from the MC to the rotors, but the
extent of the
> project
> depends on $$$.
>
> As for rust treatment - I resorted to using a
sandblaster on my
> car (i keep
> meaning to do a full write up, maybe this coming
week) but also
> had a lot of
> success with a wire brush and a paint stripper
pad. If you go to
> home depot
> or autozone they have these big round hard spongey
looking things
> that go
> into a drill that will do a pretty good job of
getting loose rust
> and paint
> and whatever else is there out, then hit it with
POR-15. I went a
> step
> further and got out ALL the rust before painting,
but i hear you
> can even
> use that stuff right over pretty bad rust. If you
blast a hole
> clear thru
> the metal somewhere, there are patch kits that
work well with
> POR15. Not
> sure if they're made by the same company,
necessarily, but
> porstore.com i
> think it is sells them in kits with it.
>
> -Grant-
> Annapolis, MD/Louisville, KY
> 1980 in storage :(
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <SequoiaGLX@twcny.rr.com>
> To: "Allyn" <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
> Cc: "scirocco list" <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2004 12:48 PM
> Subject: Re: rust treatment?
>
>
> > I'd be scared to death of a brake line like that.
> > Trust me, I've had them fail. Granted, it was on a
> > 5000 pound pickup truck....
> >
> > Best thing to do is to go to Napa, buy a brake line
> > flaring kit from OTC/Stinger for about $30 (ISO
> > Metric) and a basic line bending mandrel/tool. Run
> > a new line. The line nuts and line should be less
> > than $10.oo.
> >
> > Don't mess with rusty brake lines. It's
freaking scary.
> >
> > John K. Gates
> > --
> > Rome, NY
> > '97 Jetta GLX - daily driver
> > '85 Scirocco Flash Silver, waiting for my new
> > house/shop for a complete
> > teardown/buildup sometime soon...
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Allyn <amalventano@sc.rr.com>
> > Date: Saturday, September 4, 2004 9:35 am
> > Subject: rust treatment?
> >
> >> ok, i know POR15 is the stuff to get if you want
> > to paint to seal
> >> in a
> >> surface that has started rusting. the question is,
> > what is the
> >> good stuff
> >> that i can use to treat a surface that is _really_
> > bad. you know,
> >> when it
> >> looks like its an onion peel (feels like it too).
> > some surfaces
> >> under the
> >> passat i'm afraid to even touch (the major one is
> > a brake line
> >> that runs
> >> across the rear, right by that fuel assembly
> > thing). normally i
> >> would just
> >> wire brush something like this to get the loose
> > stuff off, but i
> >> dont want
> >> to start leaks if i can help it...
> >>
> >> thx
> >> Al
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> Scirocco-l mailing list
> >> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> >> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> >>
> >
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>
>
> _______________________________________________
> Scirocco-l mailing list
> Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
>