mk1 electrical gremlins - alternator specific (...I think)

[pilotlars at yahoo.com (Lars Bruchmann)]

ok, i think i figured out why i was loosing
conductivity on the neg. end: that oil that had been
sucked into the air intake leaked down onto where the
neg lead from the battery attaches to part of the
subframe.  i cleaned that off, then moved the other
neg lead to the top of the strut mount, wire brushed
it down to bare metal.  thanks for the petroleum jelly
tip, i'll do that right away.  i also made a 8 guage
wire from the alternator to the chasis, and another
one to the engine block.  at idle i'm cranking out
13.2 V, compared to about 10.3 before.  thanks for all
the advice guys and gals!!!  
--- T Berk <tberk@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> Lars Bruchmann wrote:
> 
> > --- "David L. Winchell, II"
> > <davidwinchell2@sprynet.com> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> >>10ga is kind week for that app.  
> 
>  > well, the wire that is there now is OEM brown,
> about
>  > 16 or 18 gauge, connected to the ac compressor. 
> I'll
>  > check with radio shack here, our 'shack' is a
> 'shack',
>  > a very small one.
> 
> I like 4, 2, 0, & Double Aught cable for my ground
> strapping and Hot 
> wire side starter needs. otoh I reused a relatively
> smallish brown 
> colored ground wire from the Alt case to the Valve
> Cover one time. 
> Better than nutt'n.
> 
> Think Industrial/Military Surplus, Welding Supply
> for ground straps. You 
> can get them premade and durable both in terms of
> weather as well as 
> nice and thick for long term mechanical goodness.
> 
> And did I mention sometimes cheeeeeeep.
> 
> 
> Also you are going to want to coat the ends with
> something like 
> petroleum jelly or other sealant against future
> corrosion.
> 
> Nice brite metal to metal contact will not stay that
> way if left to 
> Oxygen & Ozone to have their way with them.
> 
> TBerk
> 
> 
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