Compression Test Question / CV Joint Prive

[mardak at cogeco.ca (Mark)]

> -----Original Message-----
> From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org [mailto:scirocco-l-
> bounces@scirocco.org] On Behalf Of Carlos Alves
> Sent: February 11, 2004 3:01 PM
> To: 'scirocco list'
> Subject: Compression Test Question / CV Joint Prive
> 
> I want to conduct a compression test on my 16v and was wondering about
> some vagueties the Bentley manual stated. One, how do I "disconnect
the
> coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and connect it to
ground
> on the engine block using a jumper wire?" What kind of jumper wire
will I
> need? I figured I'd ask before I did something stupid.



You can use a wire with alligator clips on either end and ground it on a
known good ground (strut tower nuts, tranny ground strap, battery).
I've also just jammed some 10 g stranded wire into the end of the coil
wire and grounded it. 


 
> Also, my left CV Joint is rattling under right turns, I'm pretty sure
its
> going. I would replace it myself but it requires removing the drive
axle
> and I'm not willing to do that. How much does a new CV Joint cost and
what
> are the labor costs with putting in ("I'm assuming) both in?



Most likely it's the outside CV joint that's giving you the problem.
You DON'T have to remove the axle to replace it.  VERY easy procedure.
I just did this on my car and it worked very well.

- Loosen the 30mm axle nut while the car is on the gound
- Jack up the side you're working on and remove the wheel
- Turn the steering wheel to full lock
- Use side cutters to clip the CV boot clamps and pull the boot back
inside out and out of the way as much as possible (I would replace the
boot unless it looks new)
- Remove the axle nut completely, and push on the stub to disengage the
axle from the steering knuckle/hub.  (you might have to hammer on it a
bit if it's frozen in the knuckle)
- Now tap the CV joint off the axle.  Most of the time I've done this it
comes off without too much trouble.  Just make sure you don't pull on
the axle too much, as you can bugger up the inside CV joint by
overextending it.
- Slide on a new CV joint boot
- Slide on the new CV joint (pregreased), add a bunch of grease, and
clamp the boot.  (Your local FLAPS that loans tools will have the proper
crimper - if not I've made it work with a pair of pliers.  I've seen
heavy duty zipties used as well)
- Put the axle back in the knuckle, and put a NEW axle nut on.
- Lower the car to the ground and torque the axle nut to 173 ft/lb.


Even if you wish to replace the whole axle (a completely rebuilt axle is
cheaper than one OEM CV joint - check the archives for numerous debates
on this subject) it's a very easy job.  You basically do what I
described above, (minus removing the joint from the axle) and remove the
8mm triple square bolts holding the inner CV to the tranny.

Despite what the Bentley says, you don't have to disengage the steering
knuckle from the ball joint.  Just crank the steering all the way and
there will be enough room fandangle the axle out.  Makes the job much
easier.

HTH,

Mark.
75
80 S
81 S  2.0 ABA/JH/4K
 


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