Tightening head bolts on engine stand?

[rocco16v at netzero.net (L F)]

Actually, the torque READINGS will be the same, the CLAMPING FORCE could well be different.
Recommend beam wrenches??   I can't imagine why...... the clickers are far more consistent...and you don't have to have your eyeball postioned directly over the scale...

Larry

  Ah, yes I was using raceware studs/fasteners on my diesel. Make sure you chase the threads and blow out the bolt holes, or your torque readings will be different for each bolt. Oh, and raceware themselves recommend using the beam type torque wrench vs. click or dial torque wrenches. They went as far as to say they recommend NOT using click or dial wrenches. 
   

  Jeff Toomasson <jtoomasson@yahoo.com> wrote:
  My worry was whether lifting with the stretch bolts partially torqued would
  damage them any...

  The 180' turn comes directly from the Bentley and only applies to stretch
  bolts (which BTW should be done with the breaker bar and NOT the torque
  wrench! :) IIRC, Diesels use head studs because of the ultra high
  compression. Gas engines using studs like ARP or Raceware need to be
  retorqued too...

  JT
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: "chris gonzalez" 
  To: 
  Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 9:34 AM
  Subject: Re: Tightening head bolts on engine stand?


  > just snug them to 20lbs and torque it in the car.but 180? where did the
  extra half turn come from? I just did the head gasket on my diesel and the
  process was 20lbs, 40lbs, 50lbs, warm up the car then retorque to 50lbs. 180
  degrees more would have been more like 80lbs of torque.
  >
  >
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