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What Now? Frozen ABA crank during rebuild pt III



I took a rod/piston assembly from my 3A and tested with it's own pair of
bearings as well as the new pair and it spun just fine in both
configurations. Obviously, the rod is binding on some are of the crank. I
must have mixed this rod up with one of the others (although I marked each
one with a wire tag prior to sending the stuff to the machine shop for
jetwash)

Should I:

1) take the rod to the machine shop and have it shaved on the sides (and
trued if necessary)
2) buy a used one from someone
3) try playing musical rods and figure out which one I mixed it up with
(uggghhh)

Would shaving 0.001" off each side affect the weight that much??

Thanks again guys!  Jeff
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff Toomasson" <area53@validpath.com>
To: <rapieper@yahoo.com>
Cc: <area53@validpath.com>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 2004 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: Frozen ABA crank during rebuild pt II


> I double- and trile-checked the orientation of everything when I first
> installed it and checked again last night - everything's where it should
be
> (but everything's marked in a chiral fashion, so if you pay attention,
it's
> kinda hard to mees that up...)
>
> Anyway, not sure about the true-ness (?) or the rod. I still should
probably
> check the movement of the rod cap and base on the other side of the crank
> surface...I just can't figure out how all of a sudden the rod has no axial
play
> on a motor that had 70k on it prior to teardown.
>
> What I'll probably do is use one my 3A rods to try to pinpoint the problem
to
> either the crank or the rod. The journal is the same size and they share
the
> same bearings so it should work...
>
> Maybe I'll just have to sport for a TDI crank!!!   muuuuhuuuhwwwahahahaha!
:)
>
> Wish me luck -
>
> Jeff
>
> > Any chance you have a bent rod?  Or something is installed backwards?
> > (thinking rod-piston).
> >
> > Ron
> >
> > --- Jeff_Toomasson <area53@validpath.com> wrote:
> >> First - thanks to those who responded the first time around.
> >>
> >> Taking Anson's advice, I checked the axial play of the rods and
isolated
> >> the  binding to piston/rod assembly #2. Sure enough, removal of
piston/rod
> >> #2  allowed the crank to spin smoothly. Then I collapsed the rings of
> >> piston #2  and installed it upside-down from the top and was able to
lift
> >> and lower it  pretty easily by hand. On top of that, I took both the
rod
> >> cap and rod base  (w/ bearings) and "rotated" them around the underside
of
> >> the #2 crank bearing  surface with no problem.
> >>
> >> But I bolt it all back together and it binds...ggrrrrr....axial play is
> >> not  manually detectable (I don't have feeler gauges)
> >>
> >> My theories:
> >>
> >> 1) something on the side of the rod journal is binding on the crank or
> >> it's  just too wide
> >>
> >> 2) some portion of the #2 crank surface is warped
> >>
> >> Again, rod/main bearings are new and standard and have passed
tolerances
> >> as  measured by plastigauge.
> >>
> >> Can I have the rod machined on the sides to increase axial clearance?
Is
> >> this  not recommended?
> >>
> >> Input is always welcome.
> >>
> >> Thanks, Jeff
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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