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Seized piston impact options?



well if you are asking my personal opinion, here it is

if a cylindder is "stuck" and you beleive it was cause by some amount of
water, if it was my engine, I would strip it and do bearings maain/rod, rod
botls and ring with a honning, this is very basic rebuild , this does
permits you to inspect all important components of the block, rust on aring
is and will end up in the long run lead to damaging scrapes in your
chambers, if there is rust deposits around the crank this can lead to
bearing slipping out of place (forget the term for it) but can lead to some
expesive repairs (spun bearing job ie: .. new block)

its your call... but if the block does nto turn over with a ratchet freely..
that is what I would do.


ATS - Patrick Bureau


->-----Original Message-----
->From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
->[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Jeff Toomasson
->Sent: Sunday, November 09, 2003 11:49 AM
->To: Patrick Bureau; scirocco-l@scirocco.org
->Subject: RE: Seized piston impact options?
->
->
->1)  Crud was all of your above!  Some (but really not that much)
->rust, lotsa a carbon. Probably about 2-3cc's total. The other
->pistons have what would seem to be above-normal carbon deposit
->for a 70k mile motor, but nowhere near the amount seen in #4....
->
->3) don't have a rubber/wooden mallet - would the handle end of a
->screwdriver work?
->
->4) I'm not really opposed to cracking the block open, but the
->goal was not to spend too much $$ on this motor - it was only
->supposed to get me by for a year while I get my
->X-flow turbo 3A going. (that's assuming buying all near bearings,
->rings, etc...)
->
->>From my uneducated standpoint, there is a saving grace - the #4
->piston, which is the one that appears to be stuck, is stopped
->near the top which would seem to make it plausible that I could
->give the area in question a light hone myself without having to
->drop the crank. Am I off-base?
->
->Thanks for the input - Jeff
->Patrick Bureau <txrocco@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
->1. Please define crud (ie: carbon deposit or water/crap/oil deposit ?)
->2. pb blaster for a week, then breakerbar with a long breaker bar should
->turn that puppy over
->3. alternatly you could use a rubber or wodden mallet to tap atop each
->piston head to "dislodged presumed rusted rings from the chamber wall"
->4. personhally I would take the bottom end out, bearings/cranks
->and all, and
->then push the pistons out, if there IS rust (due to water deposit) I dont
->think turning a rusty crank is going to help against" scarring the surface
->of the bearing area on teh crank."
->
->just my 2 cents worth.
->
->
->ATS - Patrick Bureau
->
->
->->-----Original Message-----
->->From: scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org
->->[mailto:scirocco-l-bounces@scirocco.org]On Behalf Of Jeff Toomasson
->->Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2003 8:03 PM
->->To: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
->->Subject: Seized piston impact options?
->->
->->
->->The wife gave me a free pass this afternoon and I finally got
->->around to cracking open the ABA I bought a few months back (I got
->->it cheaper because it wouldn't turn over - it was complete w/
->->head, intake/exhaust mani's, T/B, fuel rail, so I didn't even
->->blink for $175).
->->
->->Wow - there was sh*t-load of crud in chamber 4...anyway, all the
->->chambers have been liberally doused with PB Blaster and will be
->->refreshed twice a day for the next couple...
->->
->->I'm wondering if there's any kind of impact I could apply to the
->->pistons w/o damaging them to assist the breakage. Could I use the
->->handle end of a screwdriver? Would it even make a difference? Any
->->other ideas?
->->
->->Hope you all are enjoying your weekend - Jeff (w/ son in rainy
->->California! :p )
->->
->->
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