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Water pump....questions



HYSTERESIS!!!! There its been said.

Sorry, long night too much coffee @ the coooffee house.

GOOOOOD NIGHT!! I have to get my alternator and tierod done by 4pm tomaro... 
well later today I gueeess.blah night all

Peace Out,
Rhett
Rocco_crossing
'83 Rocco (autocross ready, 20 days till season opener)
'92 Olds Cutlass Ciera (DD)





>From: Haygood <haygood@aemail4u.com>
>Reply-To: haygood@aemail4u.com
>To: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>,Rhett Farnum 
><rocco_crossing@hotmail.com>
>CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: Water pump....questions
>Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 23:33:02 -0800 (PST)
>
>Let me try to simplify.  You know how if you want a drill motor to do more 
>mechanical work you have to give it more electricity, right?  Well, this is 
>the same in reverse.  If you want more electricity, you have to put more 
>mecahnical work into the motor/alternator.   So it's still mushy because I 
>just referred to an alternator as a type of motor, but then that's kinda 
>the point.  They all be the same on some crude level.
>
>OK, so I tried.   The next challenge is for someone to work the word 
>hysteresis into the conversation.  Geesh.  Good night all!
>
>BH
>
>--- "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu> wrote:
> >Actually, this isn't correct. The more electrical stuff you connect to an
> >alternator, the harder you have to work to turn the pulley. In a 
>-greatly-
> >simplified manner, think about the alternator coils as being an
> >electromagnet whose strength is proportional to the electrical load
> >connected to it. Then think of the shaft/pulley as being another magnet
> >of opposite polarity that is pushing away from the first magnet as it
> >spins around. It takes more force to spin the shaft and "overcome" that
> >repulsion when you have less resistance in the electrical circuit
> >connected to the electromagnet.
> >
> >If you've ever played with an electric motor and a battery, you would 
>know
> >that if you connect the power and get the motor up to speed then remove
> >power, the motor takes a second or two to spin down. If you want it to
> >stop immediately, all you have to do is short the two terminals of the
> >motor. This creates "infinite" current between the terminals, exerting a
> >strong opposing force to the permanent magnet in the electric motor.
> >
> >Of course, an alternator isn't 100% effecient, so there is always some
> >resistance to turning even when there is an open circuit between the two
> >terminals. Not to mention bearing friction, rotating mass, etc.
> >
> >Okay, so maybe this isn't the clearest explanation possible but its the
> >best I could muster after being brainwashed by college physics textbooks
> >to speak in terms of mathematical.. stuff. I'm sorry.. my brain is
> >literally mush.
> >
> >Perhaps the best way to explain this would be simply conservation of
> >energy. If you're making energy, it has to go somewhere, right?
> >Disconnecting the electrical load means it has no where to go. The heat
> >explanation doesn't fly either because there is no current flowing 
>through
> >an open circuit. But even if it did, a 90A alternator making 14v (lets
> >simplify this model by pretending there is no regulator) spinning full
> >bore would produce 1260 watts of power. If you've ever touched a 100 watt
> >light bulb when it was on you would know how hot 100 watts is, and thats
> >not even 100 watts because heat is only produced from the "waste" power
> >of an inefficient light bulb. You can't tell me for a minute that 1.26
> >kilowatts are being dissipated as heat.. the alternator case would be red
> >hot.
> >
> >-Toby
> >
> >On Fri, 28 Feb 2003, Rhett Farnum wrote:
> >
> >> If your alt was still spinning wouldn't that still cause friction and 
>pull
> >> from your HP anyways? I mean if you turn the alternator off all you are
> >> doing is opening the external circuit, you wouldn't really be lessening 
>the
> >> friction from the alt because it would still be turning and makeing 
>energy,
> >> it just wouldn't be pushing it into the entire electrical system.
> >>
> >> Disclaimer: this is an amature electrical student talking, I am not 
>really
> >> knowledgable on the pulley end of things but electrical is a diff. 
>story so
> >> this is how *I* see it.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> Peace Out,
> >> Rhett
> >> Rocco_crossing
> >> '83 Rocco (autocross ready, 20 days till season opener)
> >> '92 Olds Cutlass Ciera (DD)
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> >From: frank <fish26133@yahoo.com>
> >> >To: ATS - Patrick Bureau <txrocco@sbcglobal.net>
> >> >CC: Scirocco Mailing List <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> >> >Subject: Re: Water pump....questions
> >> >Date: Fri, 28 Feb 2003 10:34:50 -0800 (PST)
> >> >
> >> >Patrick, On a street driven car you would probley want
> >> >to use a underdrive pulley on the crank & mabey a
> >> >larger one on the water & powersteering pumps, A good
> >> >machine shop could turn these down out of
> >> >aluminum.(Ron should know more about that)
> >> >You could also install a switch that will cutout the
> >> >alternator while racing, just besure to switch it back
> >> >on for normal driving
> >> >Good Luck,FJ
> >> >--- ATS - Patrick Bureau <txrocco@sbcglobal.net>
> >> >wrote:
> >> > > Working on my 2L project and thinking...could it be
> >> > > possible to not install
> >> > > the pulley driven Water pump and install a type of
> >> > > electrical water pump
> >> > > instead and gain some HP?
> >> > > I have been obviously reading too many racing
> >> > > catalogues, I am getting
> >> > > ideas, but no real clue what type would electrical
> >> > > driven (yeah I can hear
> >> > > the gremlins already getting ready to attack this
> >> > > thing) water pump ?
> >> > >
> >> > > any one have any ideas on this?
> >> > >
> >> > > ATS - Patrick Bureau - txrocco@sbcglobal.net
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> > > _______________________________________________
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> >> > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> >> > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >=====
> >> >Later, F Jones
> >> >        87 16V Scirocco
> >> >
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