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ala Craigers: 5 Questions!



I'll leave the pricing discussion and advice to somebody else, but here are
my comments:

> What's the dificulty level in lowering a stock seat?

A Scirocco seat is pretty damned low as it is. I don't see it going lower
simply because the bottom is nearly touching the floor as it is. One option
is to remove some padding from underneath your butt. I did that as a cheap
seat substitute when I first started racing.

> What aftermarket seats are reccomended?

I rank'm like this:
1) Recaro (mucho expensivo, but really comfy and supportive)
2) Sparco/Momo (still quite expensive, and decently comfy for the high-end
seats. Brutal on the lower back if you cheap out)
3) Corbeau/Cobra/etc. (good value, decently comfy, compromise on quality)

> I've always thought about cross-drilled slotted rotors.

As we've debated about more than a few times (chuckle), drilled rotors are
pretty much a looks thing. If you think they look good and don't mind paying
more for less brakes, then go for it! :^) Slotting is a fairly practical
thing to go for and doesn't really add much to the price. The best thing
that you can do is run the 10.1" rotors and appropriate calipers. These are
sourced from the Scirocco 16v. Anything larger than this is pointless for
99% of the street cars. In fact, running Corrado G60 brakes (etc.) will
*slow* you down.

> Third... I'd like to lower it a bit.  Pros & cons of adjustable shocks?

Pros are the ability to tune your damping rates to suit your particular
springs as well as the ability to change roll stiffness (sorta). Cons are
the extra cost and the ability for you to temporarily screw up a
well-balanced setup. :^) Nah, cost is really the only bad thing. Konis kick
ass for street, track, and autox use. I've relied on Bilsteins for rally and
street applications. Run the HD with your typical lowering springs that drop
the car 1.5" or less. Don't drop the car lower than that or you'll screw up
the geometry and create a harsh ride.

> Fourth, and I guess part of third, I'd like to do the
> sway bars, etc.  These, if I remember from searching years
> ago, aren't that pricey.

What kind of driving are you doing (bigger bars are more nervous and handle
worse on bump roads)? I'd recommend a 22mm front/28mm rear combo if you're
adventurous, autoxing, or driving on smooth roads. If you're pounding around
the backroads, a 19mm front/25mm rear makes more sense. I'm running a 19mm
front and big Shine Racing bar in the back, but that's 'cause I'm an
oversteer-loving wierdo.

> I'd like to do something about shifting... there's alot of play.
> Sure (?) shifters would fix this, correct?  What's reccomended?

You can do two things to reduce shifter play. First, upgrade the bushings to
the A3-spec parts. Potterman can help you with that. Next, upgrade the shift
linkage itself to list member Scott Rose's spherical links. I don't know of
Scott's linkage can include weights on the shaft, but it is simple to add.
Just clamp some lead fishing sinkers on there, and you'll have all you need.
--
Scott F. Williams
NJ Scirocco nut
'99 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS
Mazda 323 GTX turbo "assaulted" vehicle
Golf GTI 16v "rollycar"
ClubVAC: "Roads found. Drivers wanted."