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Knock box wiring testing help



Nope, I've tried everything I could, including replacing the coil and transfer pump as of recently...
I've come to the conclusion that it will never be fixed, and the car will always run like crap because it hates me. :(

> 
> From: "S. Coleman" <deadbolt@mindspring.com>
> Date: 2003/02/09 Sun PM 04:40:59 EST
> To: "Ryan H" <rhock99@epix.net>
> Subject: Re: Knock box wiring testing help
> 
> I've been super busy lately at work...  Did you ever figure out what was up
> with your car?
> LMK,
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ryan H" <rhock99@epix.net>
> To: "S. Coleman" <deadbolt@mindspring.com>
> Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 11:26 PM
> Subject: Re: Knock box wiring testing help
> 
> 
> > Chris, did your problem lead to low power even down low as well?
> > My car just suddenly kicks like I've got a 50,000 pound AC compressor,
> then it won't rev past 4k.  Sometimes, it kicks back to life and is fine for
> a few minutes.  Occasionally, it's dead as a dog off the line (feels like
> starting in 4th gear), then explodes to life at 3000 rpm.
> > The coil is the next component I'm looking at, as it's the only thing not
> new or swapped in the ignition.  (Knock sensor is the second one, brand new)
> > The local VW mechanic replaced my distrib and rotor and timed the motor.
> It was sluggish when I brought it to them (17+ second 1/4 mile), but ran
> normal.  Should I be wary of the job they did?  If the distrib cap is loose,
> I wouldn't be able to turn it by hand, right?
> > How about the rotor?  How do I check that (visually) for problems?
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > > I had a similar problem with my car about a year and a half ago.  I did
> > > nearly the same as you and started replacing what I "thought" was wrong.
> > > Bottom line:   My coil was breaking down at high rpms and ....well we
> all
> > > know what happens when you lose that...  If you have already checked
> your
> > > specs on your coil,.... I can tell you that my coil checked out within
> specs
> > > when it was tested.  (It was Still bad)  Lastly,... Allyn and a few of
> us
> > > met a year or so ago when my car had a strange power loss cruising
> through
> > > the mountains in North Carolina.  It was damn near always after the car
> had
> > > been running for a while and was completely warmed up...  We swapped the
> > > ignition module for a brand new one from Adirondack and the problem was
> > > still there ....  actually a bit worse it seemed.  Out came a used one
> from
> > > Erics parts stash and the problem was solved.  I never figured out why
> that
> > > one fixed the problem... But it has run like a bat out of hell since.
> > > Seems to me you have an ignition timing problem though.  Chime in here
> > > guys,... but if I'm thinking correctly,..  Advance for low-end grunt and
> > > retard for top-end grunt...   So I would look to see if your ignition
> timing
> > > is advanced too far.  (I could have these backwards,... I'm typing on 0
> > > hours sleep here)   Did you remove your distributor or loosen it to
> replace
> > > you cap and rotor?
> > > Let me know if this helps or not,
> > > Chris
> > > '88 16v Rocco
> > > '78 8v Rocco
> > > '80 Caddy
> > > '92 SLC
> > > '02 337 1.8T
> > > '00 GTI VR6
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Ryan H" <rhock99@epix.net>
> > > To: "Brian McGarvey" <brianm@earendel.org>
> > > Cc: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> > > Sent: Monday, January 27, 2003 9:14 PM
> > > Subject: Re: Knock box wiring testing help
> > >
> > >
> > > > I swapped the O2 sensor with a new one, and it didn't solve anything.
> I
> > > also tried a different coolant temp sensor (with cleaned contacts) and
> it
> > > still acts up.
> > > > I'm at a loss for what it is.
> > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > From: Brian McGarvey <brianm@earendel.org>
> > > > > Date: 2003/01/27 Mon PM 08:57:17 EST
> > > > > To: Ryan H <rhock99@epix.net>
> > > > > Subject: Re: Knock box wiring testing help
> > > > >
> > > > > That might be your o2 sensor...
> > > > > Brian
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > On Mon, 27 Jan 2003, Ryan H wrote:
> > > > >
> > > > > > Any hints or procedures for testing the knock box wiring?
> > > > > > I've swapped two different (same PN) boxes and neither worked, and
> I
> > > still suspect a faulty knock system causing my car to have low power (no
> > > timing advance, won't rev past 4k, occasionally shuts off completely)
> > > > > > I have a brand new distributor/cap, could these be bad already?
> (The
> > > problem started a week or so after I replaced it, but I replaced many
> other
> > > things in that week, too).
> > > > > > Thanks.
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > > > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > --
> > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > > Brian
> > > > > 88 16v $2003 GRM challenge car http://www.grmotorsports.com
> > > > > 84 0v Next years car got parts?
> > > > > 82 2.0L Topless bunny -- Knock Ignition and bigger clutch. next.
> > > > > 90 90q20v doing daily driver duty.
> > > > > 91 VFR750F everybody needs a 11-12 sec vehicle.
> > > > >
> > > > > Contact method. Email me for AIM, ICQ, YahooIM, IRC, etc.
> > > > > -------------------------------------------------------------
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > _______________________________________________
> > > > Scirocco-l mailing list
> > > > Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
> > > > http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l
> > >
> > >
> >
> 
>