Idle problem solved (long and detailed)

[losinit@usa.net (Cathy Boyko)]

Guess what, I had a 16V that had a bad idle, who would think.

So first I thought it was the ISV, cleaned it, no diff, changed it ( than=
ks
Julie), no change, still "panting" when hot, it was a large fluctuation, =
about
1000 rpm change, up/down about five or so times then it would finally set=
tle
in, and it sometimes made the car feel like it wanted to stall. Also, col=
d it
would idle at 1000 rpm, and be steady, but as the car warmed up it would =
creep
up to around 2000 rpm.

It next appeared that the throttle idle switches were the culprit, Renard=
's
car had done the exact same thing and this had corrected it, but on close=
r
inspection they appeared to actually be fine.

Failing the first E-test (badly) lead me to discover that the O2 sensor w=
as
putting out a mighty .9 mV, so replacing it resulted in an improved E tes=
t,
and a healthy .9 (full) volts from the sensor. The idle was mildly improv=
ed,
but still not good.

So enter the list once again. I now know how to test the mixture (thanks =
Jason
for showing me how the DPR harness works), and it had been full rich.
Adjusting it to the correct range resulted in an unbelievably stable idle=
!

So I thought I'd post in case somebody had similar symptoms, and without =
the
help of the list, it may not have been solved. Simple enough fix actually=
=2E
Thanks guys!

Cathy