16v has more power when motor is cold?

[roclist@accessconsulting.ca (Jason)]

snip...
 mess with the  resistance of the coolant temp sensor. This is
> already done in the way of 'power modules' and the like, and should work
for
> your application.

thats what i did...
snip...

> last note: you'd be surprised just how much of a power difference can come
from
> warmer intake air. you'd also be surprised about just how good the intake
is at
> dumping the cyninder head heat into the intake air stream.

so would a hood scoop designed to flow cool air over the intake produce more
ponies by keeping the intake air denser?


>
> HTH
> Al
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
> To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
> Sent: Thursday, November 21, 2002 10:25 PM
> Subject: 16v has more power when motor is cold?
>
>
> > Hey all,
> >
> > Just got back from a drive tonight and I noticed that during the first 2
> > minutes or so the car had kick ass power.. I mean, I was barely laying
in
> > to the throttle .. probably just a touch over half way, and the tires
were
> > chirping in 1st and 2nd without even trying. After the car was warmed
> > up I went over the same stretch of road and while it was still fast and
> > there was no "huge" reduction in power, I couldn't get the tires to
chirp
> > again with the same amount of throttle. Both times I was just doing my
> > normal smooth declutching action.
> >
> > I know that's not very scientific, but I'm feeling like my motor is
> > running "torquier" when it hasn't warmed up yet. Ambient air temp is
about
> > 50 F, but I can't imagine that cold vs. warm air could make that much of
a
> > difference, besides.. my engine runs cold to begin with (I never get to
> > the LED on the water temp gauge)
> >
> > I do have my mixture set to 4 mA +/- 1 mA.. Stock is 5 mA or 10 mA
> > depending on who you ask. This is a 2.0 16v with 1.8 head, BTW.
> >
> > I've noticed that my idle bounces a bit until the car warms up. I've
heard
> > that this can indicate a rich mixture, but I can't rememebr why.
> >
> > I suspect that what might be happening is while the car is in open loop
> > mode, the mixture is not influenced by the O2 sensor and is going rich
> > because of my non-stock mechanical setting of the mixture screw. But
> > once the car warms up, the oxygen sensor bypasses the mechanical
setting,
> > leaning out the mixture and causing me to loose power..
> >
> > I replaced the sensor about 1.5 years ago with a universal bosch sensor
> > and spliced the wires in to the original harness.
> >
> > So I'm wondering:
> >
> > - what is the difference between euro mechanical CIS for 16v's and our
> >   CIS-E running in open loop mode? It seems to me like there should be
no
> >   difference.. in steady-state conditions the mixture is based
completely
> >   off of the mechanical adjust screw when in open loop mode.. it should
> >   be possible to force the car in to open loop (by disconnecting the o2
> >   sensor) and tune the screw to keep something just a little richer than
> >   stoich. This would also preserve all the warm-up and acceleration
> >   enrichment features of CIS-E (assuming they normally operate when in
> >   open loop)
> >
> > - has anyone tried placing a resistor in line with the oxygen sensor to
> >   cause its output voltage to be divided between the resistor and the
> >   computer, effectively making the computer "see" a lower voltage (which
> >   corresponds to a leaner mixture) and thus causing it to richen the
> >   mixture on its own? It seems like this would work.. if it did then you
> >   could put a potentiometer in line and tune the mixture to your liking,
> >   electrically.
> >
> > I think I might try the latter, and borrow my friend's homemade air fuel
> > meter that hooks to the o2 sensor and see if putting resistance inline
> > is indeed effective in changing the mixture. First, though.. I'll need
to
> > put an ammeter inline with the o2 sensor and see how much current is
going
> > through the circuit so I can determine what range of resistance is
needed.
> >
> > Anyway, I just thought I'd share my ideas about this since I know CIS-E
is
> > notorious for leaning things out in the name of fuel economy.
> >
> > I've thought about buying one of those euro CIS setups for $300-ish but
in
> > my opinion there is nothing mechanically wrong with the CIS-E I already
> > have.. its more than capable of delivering the amount of fuel (and the
> > proper amount, at that).. so why junk it? As an electrical engineering
> > student I'm inclined to find an electrical (read: cheap; components cost
> > just pennies and are readily available) solution that uses the existing
> > mechanical parts and sensors to accomplish the same goal.
> >
> > -Toby
> >
> >
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>
>
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