[tech]: update--moving timing

[abatzis2@hotmail.com (Michael Abatzis)]

>From: "T. Reed" <treed2@u.washington.edu>
>>
>Michael.. aren't you the guy that spun a rod bearing (or something along
>those lines) in his new 2.0l block last year? Seems like this particular
>block is giving you quite a bit of trouble..

yup, that was me. pulled the block, bought and rebuilt a new one, put it 
in...and totalled the car 4 months later.

>
>Wow... See the pictures I just sent you.. same thing pretty much although
>in my case there was a teensy bit of metal left.. just enough to hold it
>from moving, I think.

it's weird though--my sprocket didn't look like there was ever a key there. 
no bits of metal, no raised edges, nothing. i think the bolt torque was what 
was keeping it from moving. since there was no key at all, the engine torque 
eventually loosened the bolt and that's when it started slipping.

>
>As long as the two sides of the key slot are parallel I think you're okay.
>Buy a new crank sprocket for $30 ($25 from potterman?) and a new bolt and
>spacer, and a new crank pulley (or seperate the one you have), and you
>should be fine.

i'll look into it. might be easier than trying to pull an old one.

>
>Well, welding the pulley and sprocket together would be worthless.. but
>that doesn't mean someone didn't do it. There are plenty of stupid shops
>and POs..
>
>Most likely, though.. they're just rusted together really good.

i was whacking the hell out of it with a hammer, and prying it full strentgh 
with a big prybar. i'll check it out closer.


>was a 12 point hex bolt (but still a 17mm head) instead of a 6 point. I
>think the torque spec changed (from 171 to 80 ft-lbs?) too. At least, my
>1.8 had the 6 point bolt and my 2.0 came with the 12.

anyone know about this? since the block was a bored/stroked 1.8, it has the 
6 pt bolt (which i prefer). what's the proper torque?

>Use the 2x4 on crank counterweight trick as Ron described or put the car
>in gear and have someone stand on the brakes so the engine won't turn.
>
>I recommend an impact wrench to get the bolt off and a big ass breaker bar
>with clicker torque wrench to put it on. Be 300% sure it is seated
>squarely and the key is engaged first, though.

i was thinking of putting a couple of bolts on the pressure plate side, and 
using a 2x4 between them as leverage. don't know if that'll be strong 
enough.

>
>You're a lucky bastard.

why do people keep saying this? i bought an engine that wasn't put together 
right, and still may have done head damage. i say this sucks. but yeah, i 
could've been much worse.

>Loctite might not be a bad idea either.. just don't plan on removing the
>bolt again.. ever..

i'm definitely throwing some blue on there.

>
>HTH,
>
>-Toby

thanks guys. i'll let you know what happens.  and if there were other 
responses to this thread, please resend them to me--toby's pics overloaded 
my hotmail acct.

-Michael Abatzis
Hotlanta! GA
1988 Scirocco 2L 16v RIP-->parting, prelim web site, but not taking orders 
yet: www.learnlink.emory.edu/~mabatzi/mikes_page1.html
1987 Scirocco 2L 16v...

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