[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Battery Reloq. Fuses/Breakers (long)



--=======53C1322C=======
Content-Type: text/plain; x-avg-checked=avg-ok-2B7C67A0; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

I might have missed something in your posting but, why do you need
to do this?  Is your electrical system fried?  If it isn't I would mess with
it, unless it's a very well thought out system because if you have problems
it may turn out to be a nightmare to keep working right, not to mention if
you ever decide to sell it.  You shouldn't have to worry about a stereo system
fire if are smart about how you do the install since most of these people that
have fires do something careless and stupid(a couple of summers ago a nearby
kid installed a new stereo system in his new to him CRX.  He hard wired it for
unknown reasons with no fuse.  Went inside, while it was running, to clean up.
Came out to his newstereo and CRX on fire)  That is the kind of stuff you 
need to
be careful of.







At 06:49 PM 3/23/02 -0600, Brian Haygood wrote:

>So  I talked to a guy who knows battery relocation stuff at a
>stereo/"performance" shop.  He says that I should put a breaker or a fuse in
>my trunk next to the battery.  Apparently he knows of a Supra that burned
>because the power line in the rocker panel got pinched and sparked a fire.
>Sounds reasonable enough.
>
>So he shows me what he has.  There is a fuse holder for like $50 that holds
>$10 fuses, or there is a $40 breaker.  So the breaker looks sweet, and I
>could also use it like a master switch.   Cool enough.  Problem is the
>breakers/fuses are 40amps.  Now I don't remember the exact number, but it
>seems like I paid for around 6-700 cold cranking amps when I bought a
>battery.  What gives?  I'm thinking that this guy only wires battery's to
>stereos, and not for starting, in which case maybe 40 amps is cool (what's
>that, like 480Watts?  doesn't even sound big enough for some stereos).
>
>So how many amps do I need for a circuit that will run the whole car?  I
>know the alt is 90amps, so my peak current draw must be well above that.
>
>Should I even bother with this?  I'm know people usually don't bother, but
>I'd like to have a master switch, and it might as well be a breaker, too, if
>I can find the right one.  I'm planning on running the wire from battery
>straight to starter solenoid, and branching off from there to the rest of
>the car, including headlight relays.    I suppose I should have a fuse block
>for the headlight relays.  Anybody got a good source for those (and a source
>for relays)?  I'll also be running a wire from negative terminal to trunk,
>and also from negative to engine compartment.
>
>I'm looking for components that don't attract attention and are weather
>resistant as much as possible.  I'm considering mounting all of the relays
>and whatever fuses to them in the driver's front fender cavity in front of
>the tire, if I get something weatherproof enough.
>
>Anyway, tell me what I need to do this right?
>
>For you EE types, is there any reason I can't use a household breaker meant
>for 120vAC?  I mean, can I rig up a "10 amp" breaker and expect it to trip
>at 100 amps on a 12volt system?  Could I test this by hooking up a household
>dimmer switch (maybe series'ed with a lightbulb or two), and hooking it up
>to my battery, then turning down the resistance until it blows, then measure
>that R?  Will I kill my battery doing that?   If it works it would be slick,
>because those breakers are dirt cheap, reliable, and compact.  The stereo
>shop's breaker was bulky and had a flashy looking clear plastic cover, which
>just turns me off.
>
>BH
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Scirocco-l mailing list
>Scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>http://neubayern.net/mailman/listinfo/scirocco-l

John C. Worden
Bucksport, Maine

'98 Dakota 4x4-Just rolled 100K
'86 Scirocco 8V-
'81 Scirocco 2.0 16V -
'78 Scirocco Brazil Brown Metallic,  4 speed.

--=======53C1322C=======--