From Subaru NewsGroup [Fwd: CAR MOD HYPES #2]

[tberk@mindspring.com (T Berk)]

Folks, (I anyone is interested I can forward the #1 thread) this post to
a Subaru Newsgroup is only sorta OT; note the question/answer format-
these pretty much match question you could make about Sciroccos, VWs in
general.

Why Fwd it in the 1st place? Well, note the esp interesting fuel pump
section.

Enjoy,
TBerk


Henry wrote:
> 
> Jason Yeh wrote:
> 
> > #6 Exhaust pipe
> > The bigger the exhaust, the better.
> Actually, the greater the cross-section of the narrowest segment of the
> exhaust route, the better. The objective is to reduce overall flow
> restriction.
> 
> > #7 Headers/ Air Exhaust throats
> > The stock headers of any given car must be changed before any air intake mod
> > installation.
> Since factory headers cost just as much to make as aftermarket
> "improvements," and the manufacturers all seek optimum thermodynamic
> efficiency, on most cars there's little to gain by such "upgrades."
> 
> 
> > #8 Engine wraps
> > By using a strip of heat-resistant cloth
> This insulating layer reduces heat transfer to the engine compartment
> and may have a long-term benefit in terms of reliability, but in
> normally-aspirated engines there's little empirical evidence to support
> a performance improvement. In turbo engines, however, this modification
> can be useful.
> 
> > #9 Lightened Fly Wheel
> > A lightened fly wheel spins without losing much speed as compared to a
> > conventional flywheel.
> The mass of the rotating flywheel must be overcome during acceleration.
> The difference between "stock" and "lightened" is inconsequential
> compared to the mass of the car.
> 
> > #10 Strut Bars
> > All cars must be equipped with strut bars on both fore and aft, upper and
> > lower. It stiffens the vehicle considerably, making it more stable when
> > executing a tight corner.
> If you mean X-members from the top of the shock tower to other
> structural members, I agree that such reinforcement can be useful.
> However, ANYTHING that stiffens the car will help keep the wheels on the
> ground during hard acceleration or cornering.
> 
> ******************************************************************
> NON-HYPE - STUFF THAT "WORKS."
> 
> Add RedLine Water Wetter (and less antifreeze) to reduce system
> temperatures by improving water-to-metal thermal transfer.
> 
> Remove as many electrical connections as you can reach (including
> fuses); clean, apply Cramolin, and replace - reducing circuit resistance
> and preventing future corrosion problems.
> 
> Add heavy ground straps between the "-" side of the battery and the
> engine block, and also to chassis ground.
> 
> Replace stock suspension bushings with neoprene, though they're squeaky.
> 
> In boosted cars, measure the voltage at the fuel pump under full
> throttle conditions - use a couple of wires of any gauge (it's a
> high-impedance measuring circuit so there's no voltage drop) to a meter
> in the cockpit. If pump voltage falls below 12V add a relay-controlled
> and fused 10-gauge direct line from the alternator to the fuel pump, and
> clean all connections.
> 
> If your engine has more than 75k miles on it:
> Pull your injectors and have them cleaned and patterned
> Replace the plugs and wires
> Replace fuel filters inline AND in tank (at fuel pump)
> 
> Drive on!
> 
> Henry
> 
> For email, subtract the cube root of 10648.