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Battery relocation to trunk?



Ron,
    If you use the full lencth of the chassis (i.e. ground at bumper bolt), you can get as much as a
3 volt drop across the chassis under starting current. This may still be enough to start it, but you
know how even minimal bad grounds on a front battery setup can be enough to not get ignition during
cranking (due to ground based voltage drop). Just wanted you to know.
    P.S. Even the new Lincoln LS that comes with battery in rear (car is near 50/50), has 2 1 gauge
wires to the battery. Even they dont use the chassis for ground.
Al

Allyn Malventano, ETC(SS), USN
87 Rieger GTO Scirocco 16v (daily driver, 170k, rocco #6)
86 Kamei Twin 16V Turbo Scirocco GTX ('it has begun', rocco #7)
87 Jetta 8v Wolfsburg 2dr (daily driver, 260k, 0 rattles, original clutch, driveshafts, wheels :)

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Pieper" <rapieper@yahoo.com>
To: <jester@westfailure.net>; <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2002 5:01 AM
Subject: Re: Battery relocation to trunk?


> Steve:
>
> First, here's an SCCA rules link http://www.moutons.org/sccasolo/.
>
> SCCA doesn't care, as far as I can tell, that you do/don't use a vented
> or sealed battery.
>
> I saw Shannon's page and it's got good info.
>
> FWIW, I'm sloooowly gathering bits to do this myself, including a cheap
> (go figure) battery box, marine-style, about $8.00.  I'm merely going
> to move my (new) stock-spec battery to the rear.  I figure that
> immediately behind the seat, as far to the passenger side as possible
> will work quite well, even though it impinges on spare tire space a bit
> w/ the big box (the spare can still be removed easily).  Alternatively,
> the spare tire well (nice and low, and no gas tank to worry about) is
> a good choice; you just have to let the spare flop around in the trunk.
>
>
> I also guess I'll run #1 or #0 AWG wire to the front, and attach ground
> to the rear searbelt bolt o a bumper bolt, whichever is cleaner; I'll
> decide at the time.  I figure to run this right to the alternator and
> extend the other +12V connections (currently connected to the battery)
> over there as well...once the battery is gone from the front, why keep
> connections there?
>
> AFA sealed or vented...hell, Beetles ran non-vented lead-acid for
> years, was there really any problems caused by this?  Serious
> question...
>
> Ron
> second-guessing everything
>
> --- jester@westfailure.net wrote:
> > Hey all,
> >
> > I've been reading rules on NHRA web site, and they dont seem to
> > differentiate between a gel-cel and lead acid... Does SCCA do the
> > same?
> >
> > I wanted to buy an Optima & mount it in the trunk of my roc, but if i
> > have
> > to put it in a box & vent it outside the car anyway, why bother with
> > the
> > optima, the main reason i wanted it was its sealed & wont leak or
> > require
> > a battery box to be put in the car???
> >
> > thanks,
> >
> > Steve
>
>
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