Cold start enrichment Question

[green536@hotmail.com (Chris DeLong)]

Thermotime switches go bad. On the cold start valve there should be positive 
on one side of the switch during crank over and not during run position. 
There should also be continuity between one side of the plug for the 
thermotime switch and the non-power side of the plug for the cold start 
valve. the other side of the plug for the thermo time switch should have 
power int he crank position only. If all that stuff checks out then you 
probably have a bad thermo time switch. and it sounds like ,from your 
description, that your cold start valve is not working.


Chris DeLong
ICQ#45030867
Seattle, WA USA
'80 16V 'Rocco ragtop
'91 GLi 2.0 16V
'77 Rabbit 16V
'80 'Vert (parting out!)
'61 17 Window type II
'91 Vanagon
'78 Rabbit
'84 Jetta





>From: Cathy Boyko <losinit@usa.net>
>To: <scirocco-l@scirocco.org>
>Subject: Cold start enrichment Question
>Date: Tue, 24 Dec 2002 11:55:21 -0500
>
>Well, I finally have the car back in my own garage. It had been out for 
>some
>repairs to the fuel system to correct a fuel drainback problem, which still
>may not have been corrected. If there are still pressure losses  they're on
>the engine end of things. But what I'm asking about is the cold start
>enrichment.
>
>How difficult should the car be to start without the fifth injector working 
>at
>an ambient temp around the freezing mark? It still takes forever to start 
>when
>it's cold. (as in I exhausted the battery and still couldn't start it, I'll
>give it another go when the charge is back up) The guy who worked on it 
>says
>there is no current (as per test light not lighting) to the blue plug on 
>the
>fifth injector, I haven't confirmed this, but have no reason to think he's
>wrong. If this is the case, does that mean I need a new thermotime switch 
>for
>sure? Or could it be something else.
>
>The dealer refused to sell me a switch, saying they seldom fail, but the 
>list
>postings suggest otherwise.  (I know who I have more confidence in).
>
>The car runs fine once it starts, and restarts easily when it's warm.
>
>So I guess the questions are:
>1. Is the switch for sure dead or might it be something else
>2. How hard should the car be to start with a dead switch (ie is this 
>possibly
>the only reason for the bad start issue)
>3. Do I really need to drain the coolant to do the switch, or can I get 
>away
>with a quick change like I did for the one in the rad.
>4. Anybody local to me got the tools to test fuel pressure? (Southern 
>Ontario
>or Western New York)
>
>Thanks, and Merry Christmas
>Cathy 1987 2L 16V "the silver headache"
>
>PS You guys/gals are the best!
>
>
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