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Re: Help! R134 is the pits (hope you're not too sick of this topic!)




brian,

once I get back to texas, perhaps you can show me how this is done
and well make it a nice and neat technote with pictures
for the web site and then well just have to enter the url for any
other request on the r12-r134 conversation topic. :)
(of course i will buy all that is needed and provide the payment fo a case 
of 24 bottle of good ol' buck beer in payment

    ___  ___________
   /   |/_  __/ ___/  A Texan's Scirocco 1985 8v
  / /| | / /  \__ \   http://www.longcoeur.com/scirocco
/ ___ |/ /  ___/ /   (AIM) patricdlc, (ICQ) 32918816
/_/  |_/_/  /____/



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Brian Wagner" <scirocco_88_16v@hotmail.com>
To: tberk@mindspring.com, curtv@eudoramail.com
CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
Subject: Re: Help! R134 is the pits (hope you're not too sick of this 
topic!)
Date: Thu, 04 Oct 2001 08:30:30 -0500

Alright I have been watching this topic long enough now it is time for my
.02.

The r134a conversion when done right cools just a effectively as the old
r12.

1)Items that should be replaced when doing this to ensure total efficiency
are the receiver/dryer, expansion valve and new oring seals at all the
joints. Also you should flush the condensor (in front of the radiator)and
the evaporator (in the air exchager in the car), this removes the r12
mineral oil based lubricant (does not mix with new synthetic PAG oil) if
mixed it will eventually gel and plug up everything. After the system has
been flushed install the receiver/dryer and expansion valve, imediately draw
a vacuum on the system if not the receiver/dryer will become saturated (it
is a desicant, removes moisture from the system). At this point you will
then add 8 fluid ounces of pag oil and 34 to 36 oz. of r134a (yes this is
10% to 15% less than the r12 factory recommendation) this due to the
different expansion rates of the gases under pressure. Low side pressure
underload of the compressor should flucuate between 35 and 60 psi, highside
between 170 to 220psi. When all this is done you will blow very cold air, I
did this to my wifes car and with the outside air temp of 98f the vents were
blowing 59f almost 40 degrees different and thats in Texas.

the parts needed were cheap
receiver/dryer - $18 German Auto Parts
expansion valve  $31 same
oring kit - $7 local supplier
r12 to r134a conversion kit - $29 at kmart (or store of your choice) this
includes pag oil, r134a, fill hose and r134a adapters

You can do the whole system in 1 to 2 hours based on skill, and do all the
work yourself. Except maybe the vacuum, take it to your local garage and
they can do that for like $20. When r12 is currently going for $60 to $70
per 12oz's this conversion is much more cost effective.

Don't be such wussies and get it done.

Brian

87 16v
86 8v (parts car)



>From: T Berk <tberk@mindspring.com>
>Reply-To: tberk@mindspring.com
>To: curtv@eudoramail.com
>CC: scirocco-l@scirocco.org
>Subject: Re: Help! R134 is the pits (hope you're not too sick of this
>topic!)
>Date: Wed, 03 Oct 2001 16:03:26 -0700
>
>
>Re using the new A/C stuff in your old system-
>
>Perhaps you might want to maximize the heat transfer by cleaning the
>front (what is it called, and the Condenser? Evaporator?) in front of
>the rad.
>
>You might also consider installing one of those brushless muffin fans
>that run on 12v, you can get them for $5-10US, mounted on the front to
>PUSH air in and hooked to trigger (prob w/ inline fuse and and a diode
>wouldn't hurt to prevent backwash),  these thing are built for computer
>cases but serve in other respects. I'd think a great big 3" or larger
>would be in order.
>
>Other than that I wonder if you have the big square compressor or the
>later round type, I believe the early kind was not as efficient and put
>quite a load on the motor.
>
>hth,
>TBerk
>
>--
>Email LIST problems to: scirocco-l-probs@scirocco.org.
>To unsubscibe send "unsubscribe scirocco-l" in the message to
>majordomo@scirocco.org
>


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