Re: lets see, staart engine then hook up ammeter...crank..crank..crank...FUÇK!

[16V Jason <jason@scirocco.org>]

Dan,
         The Tach bouncing thing isn't all that uncommon -- mine does the 
same thing.  It shows, more than anything else, that the coil isn't getting 
enough juice.  A brand new battery solves the problem for me, and then gets 
gradually worse for a few years until the battery gives out.  On my car, 
it's grounding issues to the block, as I've grounded everything else.

         I still haven't seen you talk about checking to see if the coil is 
putting out any spark.  To me it sounds like  you're not getting any spark.

         According to the Bentley, this is the best way to test for 
spark.  You'll need a helper:  Remove one of your ignition wires from a 
plug, and push a known working plug into it.  Allow the metal body of the 
plug (NOT the electrode at the end) to touch a known good ground (your 
alternator bracket should work fine) and have your helper turn the 
key.  While the engine cranks, you should see a spark jump the gap of the 
plug.  The bluer the spark, the healthier (=stronger) it is.

         If you don't see a spark, make sure your distributor is 
turning.  Remove the cap and kick the starter on.  If it doesn't turn, you 
broke a timing belt.  There should also be no oil in there.  If you see oil 
in the dist, the seal broke and you need to replace the dist.

         If the dist is turning and you're not getting spark, there is a 
series of electrical tests to follow in the Bentley.  Ask me, I know -- I 
just did them on an 87 16V Jetta last week.  They're easy tests for the 
most part; making sure that the Hall Sender is getting power, making sure 
that the coil is getting power, and then making that the coil is good.

         On the Jetta, the problem turned out to be that it wasn't getting 
spark because the small computer (the one that is screwed to the top of the 
larger K-Jetronic computer) had failed.  We swapped it with one that was 
known to work and *boom*.  Car started and ran normally.

Good luck,
Jason



At 06:59 PM 9/28/2001, Michael Abatzis wrote:
>does it work w/o the harness? are you hooking it up to the dpr? the 
>potentiometer towards the front of car on the fuel meter valve thing 
>(can't remember the correct name) looks similar. sounds like maybe you 
>bumped a wire on the hall sender. are you getting a spark?
>-michael
>
>>
>>ok, so i made a harness and everything for the mixture test.  Go to start 
>>the car, nothing.  i smell gas, but it doesnt start.  The tach jumps when 
>>im cranknig it, sometimes up to 5000rpm.  Check all the grounds, coil is 
>>connected, grounds are connected, plug wires are connected, no fuel 
>>leaks, CSV working perfect, what else could it be?  so i drain the 
>>coolant and replace the thermotime switch which was faulty, but the 
>>engine used to start.  now it wont.  Cant find my 5/8th plug socket so 
>>cant replace teh plugs.  Could plugs fouled with soot from an extremely 
>>rich engine cause it to not start? or has my coil died?  Really getting 
>>sick of my car not working....
>>
>>please help
>>
>>dan miller
>>
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