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MFA swap woes




Hey list,

I ran across an instrument cluster from an '86 GTI (120mph/7k/MFA) and
decided to try swapping the MFA into my 16v Scirocco cluster. I got both
clusters completely disassembled, THEN found out that the tachometers had
different locations for screw holes in the gauge faces and the 8k tach
won't fit with the MFA circuit board in the way. I sat there staring
at it for a good half hour but I couldn't come up with any good solutions.
All I could think of was to try to fab some tiny metal bracket that would
increase the wingspan of the tiny plastic piece that the gauge face mounts
to. Either that or gluing the gauge face directly to the gauge itself
(bad)... But first, I thought I'd consult the list and see if I have any
better options... - I definately learned my lesson today: if you're going
to do an MFA swap, just get a whole new cluster. The extra money will be
worth it to save the headaches and misery.

Also, if someone has done this before, what parts did you keep from what
cluster? Here's what I'm thinking (and hoping will work when finished):

>From 140mph/8k/no mfa cluster:		From 120mph/7k/mfa cluster:
clear plastic on front of cluster	black bezel with mfa symbols
140mph speedo				mfa circuit board
8k tach (hopefully.. grr)		mfa lcd display
gas gauge				vacuum sensor
temperature gauge			speed sensor
upshit light				flexible circuit board
voltage regulator
screws
backlight bulbs
leds

Basically, I'm trying to keep as much of my 16v cluster as possible, since
its in excellent shape and I know all the gauges work already. What I
don't know about is electrical compatibility with the GTI cluster - can I
just plug it in and have it work (not including the wiring for the oil
temp and air temp senders and the mfa switch) or will I have to re-arrange
wires in the black and white connectors at the bottom of the cluster?
Hopefully Bentley will have the answer..

One more question for people who have MFAs - is there a common cause for
why the button on the end of the mfa stalk stops working? The switch I got
with the cluster has this funky problem where it only responds if you hit
it in exactly the right spot from the right angle. It seems to me like
corroded contacts inside but I just hope I can disassemble it enough to
get to them..

Thanks for any help,

-Toby

--
'87 16v - no mfa... yet.


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